A Taste of Italy

Ciao a Italia!

2010-05-12T18:15:00.006+02:00

Well, the end is here. It is still so hard to believe that as of 0700 tomorrow my time in Italia will officially be over!

These past eight months have been truly incredible and life changing for both Niraj and I. However, his time isn't quite over yet... he's lucky enough to have two weeks of finals ahead of him! We have met some amazing people, seen many incredible sights, ate kilos and kilos of delicious food, and truly have had a tremendous experience here in Bologna.

In memory of our months spent living abroad, here is a few of the many things that will be missed, but will be forever remembered:

- vino
- spritz con aperol
- gelato, gelato, gelato (bacio e stracciatella for me / fragola e fior di latte for Niraj)
- tortelloni con burro e salvia
- tagliatelli al ragu
- gnocchi
- Spacca Napoli pizzeria
- apperitivi
- prosciutto hanging in butcher windows
- Parmesan cheese
- Balsamic vinegar
- Mascarpone
- European style apartment keys and the 4 deadbolts on the apartment door
- constantly searching for buttons to exit buildings
- constantly searching for buttons to flush toilets
- the accordion and violin players on Strada Maggiore
- the woman down the street who is always painting her pottery
- the need to use a lighter to ignite the oven and the burners
- seeing a church around every corner
- the ability to walk EVERYWHERE
- the midnight bakery with the fresh pastries
- uneven sidewalks
- porticoes
- the SAIS Bologna Center and the rooftop terrace
- I Due Torri
- the outdoor market in Piazza 8 Agosto
- street markets and festivals
- Bolognese food (may have said that already...)
- "our" produce guys in Piazza Aldrovandi
- the antique shops that never seem to have customers
- Enotecas
- seeing University students with graduation wreaths all throughout the year
- Piazza Maggiore and Nettuno
- navigating through windy European streets
- the outdoor vendors behind Piazza Maggiore
- the ability to get anywhere via train
- Trattorias
- wooden window shutters on every building
- taking your time to eat a meal without being rushed or hurried
- hearing little children speak Italian
- hearing "allora," "si si!" and "va bene!" everywhere you turn
- oh... and don't forget the food!!

Allora, it is time to say goodbye. Thanks to everyone who has followed our journeys and adventures this year... we can't wait to see you Stateside!

Arrivederci Italia ... grazie per i ricordi ... siete sempre nei nostri cuori!!

Tex-Mex, Farewell Parties, and Lots of laughs

2010-05-09T15:06:00.004+02:00

Keeping up with the mindset of cramming everything into our last few weeks in Bologna, Niraj and I have been very busy eating, socializing, job hunting, and studying.

Last week we decided to have a Tex-Mex night and in order to enjoy the Velveeta and Rotel that my parents so kindly brought back from the States. We invited 7 people over (including another fellow Texan!) for cheese queso, guacamole, salsa, tortilla chips, margaritas, and chicken fajitas. It was so delicious and we had many, many laughs and a terrific night. And as luck would have it, we unintentionally scheduled it on Cinco de Mayo! All in all a fabulous night with great friends.

The next night was also truly spectacular but completely different. One of the students in the program decided to host an extravagant cocktail party for all the students, faculty, and staff. He is living in one of the top 5-Star hotels in Bologna this year, and he rented out a floor and an outdoor patio in the hotel where he held a fabulous party. He personally greeted everybody as they arrived up the stairs, hired a band, provided catered snacks and an open bar, and hired a personal photographer and a magician to wander all night. The vast majority of students and faculty came out, and we all had a fantastic night! It was all so tasteful, elegant, and classy, and it was fun seeing everybody all dressed up and enjoying a relaxing night under the stars. Here are a couple of our favorite pictures:

The Girls

Niraj and Edmond, our gracious host

Niraj and I enjoying the evening

When we left the party we encountered one of the most random but most amusing things we have seen thus far in Bologna. Apparently there was some sort of car show going on, so on our way home from the cocktail party we were able to watch classic roadsters drive past us! The main streets were closed down, people were waving little flags from the sidewalks to cheer on the teams, and cars (each with a driver and passenger in matching coveralls and colored caps) drove by at a steady rate. Keep in mind, this was around 12:30AM! I'm not quite sure what was going on, but as car buffs Niraj and I both got a kick out of watching old Alfa Romero's and other Italian classics drive by.

As you can tell, these last few days are proving to be truly terrific. I am enjoying many lunch and dinner outings with friends I have made these past 9 months and stuffing myself with as much tortelloni, ragu, parmesan, prosciutto, vino, and gelato that I can manage before Thursday. It's fantastic, and still so hard to believe my countdown to departure is now less than 4 days! We are both, however, definitely getting excited to begin our next adventure and see where we end up after Bologna...

Gotta love those last minute excursions!

2010-05-05T18:16:00.002+02:00

The countdown for my departure from the enchanting land of Italy continues... and it is now officially T - 8 days and counting. Still surreal! Niraj still has more time over here, even though his time is filled with papers and exams.

Keeping with the theme of getting in as much as possible before leaving, there are a few recent travel adventures to share.

Last week I found out that the company I am consulting for was doing some testing in a town outside of Zurich. So I was invited me to meet everyone out there and witness the happenings. Now, who would pass up a chance to go to Switzerland?! So, I took a train out to Basel and also spent a few hours wandering Zurich on my way back home.

First of all, the train ride from Milano to Basel was absolutely breathtaking! The entire way you are winding through the Alps, and I spent 4 hours gazing at lakes, mountains (some still with snowy peaks), farms, and random little villages under perfectly clear skies . It was definitely beautiful country.

Basel is a quaint town, and it is unique because it lies right where Switzerland, France, and Germany meet. We had some time to explore Old Town, ate some amazing fondue, and took in as much Swiss culture as we could. As I mentioned, I decided to stop over in Zurich as well on my way back to Bologna. Zurich was fantastic! Anyone who knows me well and has heard me talk about my travels over here knows that I love the German Brezels (pretzels). I lived off them during Oktoberfest and begged my parents to bring me some when they stopped over in Frankfurt airport, so needless to say I also lived off of those in Zurich! They were so delicious! Besides eating pretzels, I was able to walk across the river and get lost in the curvy, hilly streets of Zurich. Switzerland is definitely quite lovely, and here are pictures to prove it.

The other last minute trip we squeezed in was to Cinque Terre. This area is 5 little cliff side villages right on the Mediterranean Sea... Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso. Riomaggiore is the largest of the five, but Vernazza and Monterosso were our favorites. By the time you get out to those two you have lost many of the other tourists and get a real "feel" of the culture and lifestyle.

Each town is a little bit different, and there is a walking/hiking path right along the water connecting all five towns. That part of the country is stunning because you have rolling hills with vineyards on one side of you and the gorgeous blue waters of the Mediterranean on the other side. There were 10 other SAIS students going out that weekend, so we spent part of Saturday exploring with them as well. We walked in between all of the towns, sampled local wine, ate seafood (well, Niraj ate seafood), tried the local pesto (quite delicious), and even ventured into the water. Niraj and the others decided to go all in which was quite hilarious to watch! Here's proof of them all waving to the camera:

And here are the rest of our photos.

All in all, definitely more great adventures and good times to add to our yearly inventory!

Good Day Sunshine

2010-04-25T20:01:00.004+02:00

Today was the perfect spring day. The sun was shining, there was not a cloud in the sky, and it was one of the first days we were able to wear short-sleeve shirts, flip flops, and sunglasses. This morning I even had the privilege of hearing my neighbor singing "Volare" at the top of his lungs while he was watering his plants. He was no Pavarotti, but I can honestly say there have been fewer things this year that had made me feel more Italian than that!

Today was also the day of the SAIS International BBQ. After all, what better way to celebrate an International school than by eating food from all over the world? It is Italy. Eating is what we do here.

Everyone spent the afternoon at school under the sun enjoying each others company and eating delicious food. There was everything from Polish cucumber salad to curries to Italian chocolates to Swiss hash browns to potato pancakes to Spanish churros to Mexican fajitas and guacamole to hot dogs to grilled plantains to good ol' American apple pie (that one was courtesy of Niraj and me). The list goes on and on but I think that gives the general idea. Somebody even threw in a box of Girl Scout Thin Mint cookies! Just like Thanksgiving, it amazes me the kind of food you can make over here if you really dig around for ingredients and get creative. The afternoon also included throwing around a frisbee, kicking soccer balls, and even a few numbers from SAIS' in house a cappela group.

Everybody (including Niraj) is getting geared up for the last few weeks of class and for final exams/papers, so it was definitely a great way to give into spring fever and relax a bit. All in all, not a bad way to spend an Italian Sunday afternoon.

Volcano Disruptions and Feeling the End is Near (not literally of course...)

2010-04-23T21:23:00.002+02:00

As most of you know, the recent volcano eruption in Iceland caused many, many problems on this side of the pond. Forget the thousands of other people stranded, the most important disruption was that the flight of our good friends Mike and Alyssa was canceled! Ok, maybe that wasn't most important but it sure felt that way to Niraj and me. Mike and Alyssa were supposed to be here right now drinking wine and eating gelato with us, and we were very disappointed they didn't make it. Luckily they were able to take a much needed vacation elsewhere, and at least we'll be stateside soon to see everyone again!

Let's not forget all the other great people who come see us these past few months... it has meant a lot to us to have so many people visit. The Oktoberfest crew (Ann, Aaron, Jason, Jon, and Erin [wink, wink!]), Ted, the recently married Chapmans, and my parents. Having friendly faces definitely helped us survive the year, so thanks a million to those who made the trek! And for those who couldn't make it, guess we'll just have to catch up for lost time back home...

All in all time is really starting to fly by. I'm venturing back in 3 weeks, and as people are slowly starting to trickle out of Bologna it's starting to hit that this will all come to an end soon. Guess we just have to make the most out of our final weeks here. So... gelato, pasta, wine, parmesan, and prosciutto, here we come!

Italy vs. Europe

2010-04-16T13:41:00.004+02:00

This was shown a few months ago at school during a student event, and I just had to share it with everyone. It is absolutely hilarious, and every bit of it rings true to life over here. From the buses to the parking to the autostrada to the smoking to clapping on the airplane, Niraj and I have seen it all this year!

Enjoy and be prepared to laugh out loud!

Italy vs. Europe

A real Taste of Italy

2010-04-16T11:05:00.000+02:00

Last weekend, Niraj and I had yet another fantastic experience here in Bologna. We did a cooking class to learn traditional Bolognese cuisine. There is a cooking school called "Taste of Italy" here in the city (and yes, I named my blog before I ever saw that!), and they really did provide a terrific culinary experience for us.

We had the privilege of taking our class with 7 other Hopkins students at a Bed and Breakfast in the little town Castel San Pietro. The place had a fantastic open air kitchen which was perfect on that beautiful sunny day. Our instructor Teresa was an 80-year old, award-winning sfoglina who makes pasta by hand everyday for local restaurants. She makes such perfect pasta that customers at her restaurants often don't believe the pasta is handmade because it is cut too evenly. She did not speak a word of English, but was very entertaining and thought we were all molta bella (we thought the same of her as well).

Throughout the 4 hours that we were in San Pietro, we learned how to make the dough, knead the dough, roll the dough, and cut various pasta shapes. We made tagliatelle, tortelloni, farfelle, and garganelli. We probably had enough handmade pasta for 30 people!

Naturally, after making the pasta the next step was to eat the pasta. We sat outside under the sun and were able to try our different pasta shapes in 3 very typical Bolognese sauces:

1) tagliatelle con ragu (the traditional meat sauce from Bologna)
2) garganelli with 3P sauce - panna (cream), piselli (peas), and pancetta (bacon)
3) tortelloni con burro e salvia (butter and sage)

The instructor provided 2 bottles of wine from a nearby vineyard, and the food was delicious! It still amazes me how delicious fresh pasta is... especially when your hands and arms are sore from working it yourself!

Check out the Pictures to get a feel for the entire experience, and buon appetito!

Milan, Prague, Bratislava, Budapest... oh my!

2010-04-14T12:14:00.005+02:00

Wow, so much has happened lately that I don't even know where to begin!

Last week was spring break for the Johns Hopkins - Bologna Center which meant lots of visitors and lots of adventures. My parents were in town for two weeks and we did a whirlwind tour of Milan and Eastern Europe. Before getting into the travel photos and stories, let me first say how excited I was when I realized what was in their luggage...

That's right, a little taste of home! My parents threw the famous blue boxes of Kraft Macaroni & Cheese into their suitcases along with Girl Scout cookies, chocolate chips and other cookie making ingredients, and Velveeta and Rotel for queso dip. Say what you will about how sinful it is to eat packaged powder cheese when I am amongst all this delicious Italian food, but that bowl of macaroni may have been one of the highlights of our year here! It's amazing what you miss after being away for so long... :)

Another non-Spring break highlight was a little surprise I had from Niraj. He got me a giant chocolate Easter egg! And I mean giant! Notice the spice jars in this picture... pretty big huh? Buon Pasquale! Happy Easter!

Ok, now on to the travels...

I met my parents in Milan and we spent a fabulous weekend in this high-end Italian town that none of us had ever been to before. We walked and walked and walked all over the city, saw Wagner's "Tannhauser" at the famous La Scala Opera House, ate amazing food, walked through the Galleria shopping center where many designers got their start, and saw many Italians walking through the streets on Palm Sunday with their olive branches. There were two highlights that stood out over all of those amazing things, however.

The first was the Duomo. Milan's famous cathedral is absolutely breath-taking gothic architecture, which by far is one of my favorite styles. The inside was just as stunning, but it was the top of it that was best of all. Yes, the top! The coolest thing about the Duomo is that you can walk on top of it! My parents and I were able to walk amongst the statues, the pillars, the spires, and cross the entire length of the roof. Seeing Milan from the top of a church and seeing this amazing piece of work so up close and personal was surreal. And again, being Palm Sunday we could hear mass going on inside. Now, how many people can say they heard mass from a rooftop?

The second memorable thing we did in Milan was see Da Vinci's Last Supper painting. After making reservations months in advance we finally got to see this unbelievable piece of work. The painting takes up an entire wall in this otherwise empty room, and it is just as breathtaking as I had always imagined. And again, seeing it on Palm Sunday right before Holy Week made it extra special.

After going to Milan, Niraj and I showed my parents around Bologna for a couple of days. We also made a delicious meal at home to show of our newly learned Bolognese cooking skills, and the four of us gorged ourselves on Torta Frittas, Prosciutto di Parma, Spritz, wine, tortelloni con burro e salvia (butter and sage), and a delicious after-dinner digestif. Even after traveling all over Europe, the food in Bologna never ceases to amaze!

Then our Eastern European journey began. We flew into Budapest and spent three days there. Budapest was so beautiful, and it is amazing how the River Danube divides the city into a a hilly part (Buda) and a flat part (Pest). Parliament Building stands out in the flat side right along the river, and the Palace and Fisherman's Bastion tower over the hills on the opposite bank. We did a tour of Parliament, went to a Hungarian opera (which was by far the weirdest thing any of us had ever seen!), ate amazing sausages and potatoes and goulash, went inside many cathedrals, and just marveled at the un-touched beauty of this post-communist city. This was my first time in a post-communist country (Niraj had been to Sarajevo though), and it was incredible seeing the remnants of communist rule and hearing the history of it. We did a communist walking tour our last day there, and had an incredible guide who grew up under Soviet rule. We heard stories about the schools, the daily life, the censoring, and saw buildings and landmarks that we would have otherwise overlooked completely. The place Niraj and I stayed at was also a typical building, and as you can see in the pictures has been limited in the upkeep department.... it had so much character though and definitely added to the whole experience.

One of the highlights here was going to the Bathhouse. The one we went to was outside the city just a bit, and there were numerous natural sulfur pools both inside and outside that you could soak in. The temperatures ranged from lukewarm to 106F, and it was definitely the most relaxing thing of the entire trip! One of the outdoor pools even had a whirlpool-like portion of it, and when you got into it you would effortlessly go round in circles. It was hilarious... especially when you tried to get out! Plus, Niraj only made matters worse by repeatedly pushing me back in when I tried to get out... fun times.

After three days in Budapest, we hopped on a train to spend a quick day in Bratislava, Slovakia. This often overlooked town was very quaint and was a nice change of pace from western Europe. We wandered through the tiny pedestrian streets, saw the famous Cumil statue of the jolly worker peeking out of a manhole, ate a big meal of weinerschnitzel and potato croquettes, walked along the streets where famous composers once ventured, and just spent a few hours exploring. It was a quick stop, but there was again so much history and a unique feeling to the city.

Our final venture was to the magnificent city of Praha (Prague). We were there over Easter weekend and were able to learn the traditions of the city. There were Easter markets set up in every square where you could buy sausages, gluwine (hot mulled wine), the famous Pilsner Urquell beer, hand painted eggs and gifts, and gorge yourself on (our favorite) Tredlnik. This delicious treat is bread that is rolled and grilled over an open flame and then covered in a mixture of vanilla, cinnamon, and almonds. YUM!!! I think it's fair to say my parents and I quickly became addicted to these! We also learned that the Easter tradition is for boys to tie sticks together with ribbons and then go door-to-door to visit the girls they know. They knock on the door, hit the girl (gently) on the legs with the sticks, and then the girl has to give the boy an egg that she has decorated. Ah, the unique traditions of other cultures!

In Prague we began by doing a 3 1/2 hour walking tour of the city. We got a great sense of the city and learned the entire history from our fantastic tour guide. During our stay there we saw the Astronomical Clock, Our Lady of Tyn Cathedral, Old Town Square, walked across Charles Bridge both during the day and at night, went up the tower for an amazing birds-eye view of the city, walked through the Jewish Quarter, saw the Kafka statue, and spent a few hours at the Palace. Again, the architecture and history of this city was absolutely incredible! An interesting tidbit about Prague is that many major movies are filmed there (regardless of where they actually take place) because it's the one city in the world where nearly every type of architecture is present. You walk down a street and every building looks drastically different, but just as stunning, as the one before it. Again, this just touches the surface of all the things we did and saw, but it's fair to say that Prague is now right up there with Budapest as one of the most incredible cities I have ever seen!

I could go on forever about these two weeks of travel, but I think the pictures show things better than I can explain! So, take a look and enjoy... I know we sure did!

Milano

Budapest

Bratislava

Praha

Friendly visits

2010-03-25T12:36:00.000+01:00

This past weekend we were visited by Ted, our good friend from Seattle, for a few days. It was so nice to see a familiar face again! We had a few great adventures and definitely had a lot of laughs.

The day he arrived we dined at Osteria Broccaindosso which Niraj and I had heard so many wonderful things about but had not yet been able to try. This restaurant was fantastic and we ate until we could hardly move! Basically, you pick what courses you want (we chose antipasti - appetizer, primi piatti - first course, dolci - dessert) and they bring out plates with EVERYTHING that they are making that night for each course! We must have had 6 different antipasti, 5 different pasta dishes, and probably about 10 desserts. Needless to say it was tons and tons of food but it was great to try so many homemade dishes.

Friday we hopped on a bus and made the short trek out to the Lamborghini Museum. That was incredible! We had a guided tour of the museum floor and even got to go into the factory. Oh my, those cars are stunning and absolutely perfect. The cars are completely hand-made and custom ordered. The factory currently makes two models in limited colors (gray, black, white, orange, yellow), and sticker prices range from 400,000 euros to 1.1 million euros! We saw a few of the cars driving off the line and heading out for their road test, and we saw all parts of the cars from the engines to the frames to the brake pads. Unfortunately, cameras were not allowed in the factory but here are our museum pictures.

Over the weekend we headed to Tuscany. We spent Saturday morning in Pisa, so (of course) we saw the leaning tower and the Piazza dei Miracoli, took silly pictures kicking over the tower, and had a nice picnic on the grass. From there we went to Lucca which was a complete 180 from Pisa. The entire city wall is still intact and the city has not yet been overrun by tourists... definitely nice to get away from tourists. We walked through the narrow streets, had a fabulous dinner at a local Trattoria, and just enjoyed the serenity of the town. Sunday morning we packed up and moved onto Florence where we spent the day wandering around the Ponte Vecchio, eating gelato, exploring the markets, checking out the Uffizi and the Academia, and taking lots of pictures.

Here are a few choice pictures from Ted's visit.

Yesterday I had another chance to meet up with some old friends when I met Brandon and Molly (also from Seattle) in Florence! Yes, Florence twice in one week... but who would complain about that?! We had a great lunch and then wandered all over the city up and down and up and down the hills! We saw Galileo's house and Fort Belvedere, marveled at amazing views from churches on top of the hill and Piazza Michelangelo, and walked along the Arno river. Another great day in Tuscany.

All in all, things are still fantastic as usual. Our time over here is winding down very quickly and it is so hard to believe! My parents are coming in tomorrow and we will be spending two weeks traveling around, so there will definitely be lots more stories and pictures to come...

Under the Tuscan Sun

2010-03-16T20:55:00.000+01:00

This past weekend, while Niraj was slaving away in class and in the library, I ventured off with 7 other woman (who have dubbed ourselves the Ladies of Lesiure) to Tuscany for a girls getaway. It was fantastic and was definitely the epitome of all you would expect of Tuscany.

We left early Saturday morning and made a stop over in Greve, a little town just south of Florence in the wine zone of Chianti. When we arrived, we explored the Saturday fresh air market that is to typical of Italy. The sun was shining which felt terrific after the massive snowstorm the entire country experienced the week before. We opted to buy a pork sandwich and some fruit from the vendors and sit outside to people watch and bask in the sunshine.

From there, we did a very scenic, hilly drive towards Montepulciano. The drive was stupendous, and every direction en route provided never-ending views of wineries and rolling hills. Montepulciano was yet another town full of character and charm, and after hiking up the hills we reached the main piazza. We explored a cantina that housed some of the biggest wine barrels I have ever seen, and then we all sat in a cafe four hours tasting wines of the region.

We then ventured to Pienza where we had rented out an agritourismo. From this point forward is when the true Tuscan experience really began! The farmhouse was run by a couple who was oh-so-very Italian. After showing us our rooms and our quaint little apartments, the owner then proceeded to bring us two bottles of the Vino Rosso that is produced on the site. Not only did he give us the wine, but he sat right on down and drank it with us! After that, he stated over and over how we weren't eating enough (if you're not eating all the time then Italians are not satisfied) so he made reservations for us at his favorite Trattoria. The meal was fantastic and we gorged ourselves with Ceci noodles and wild boar sauce. After all, we had to make him happy!

The night got even more eventful when we returned from dinner. Once we got settled and started a fire in our cute apartment, he returned yet again with a bottle of grappa and a bottle of amaro, the sweeter liqueur. These are two very typical after dinner digestives here in Italy and were also both made in house. Once again, he plopped right on down and drank it with us swapping stories and overcoming the language barrier!

The next day we were shown even more hospitality. We awoke to clear and sunny skies, so we decided to sit outside to drink tea/coffee and enjoy the baskets of goodies provided by the farmhouse. After breakfast we were given a full tour of the agritourismo. We saw the vineyard, the cantina, the animals, the wine barrels, the bottling rooms, and all the foods produced by the family. We were treated to generous samples of wines, pecorino cheeses, prosciutto, and sausage (including sausage made from pig's head!) that were all made on site. Once again, it was all about keeping us well fed! The food was fantastic and we really felt welcomed. We spent the rest of the day exploring Pienza, sitting in the sun, marveling at the views of the valley, and eating gelato.

Here are a few choice pictures:

Enjoying mimosas in the sunshine

On the hilltop of Pienza

The agritourismo where we stayed

Having our feast prepared by the owners

The Ladies of Leisure under the Tuscan sun

All in all, it definitely was not a bad way to spend two days with the ladies!

More random thoughts on the day to day life...

2010-03-09T12:39:00.004+01:00

1) Even though it is March and everyone suffers from spring fever, watching big snow flakes slowly fall to the ground is still very relaxing.

2) Zucchini Risotto and Spritz are absolutely delicious, especially when home-made!

3) Italians could benefit from thicker apartment walls, especially since the people who live next door are obsessed with techno music (especially Madonna) and have recently taken to playing it at all hours of the day.

4) On a similar note, the guitarist living next door on the other side is playing Clapton, Santana, and The Animals daily and (unfortunately for us) has not yet improved much this year...

5) I am extremely excited for asparagus season to finally be arriving and can't wait to try the famous asparagus grown here in Emilia-Romagna!

6) Skype is fantastic, and it has been nice talking to friends and family back home on occassion.

7) As much as we complain about the overall slowmoving-ness of this country, the loud neighbors next door, the lack of a clothes dryer and a dishwasher, and the amount of dog poop all over the sidewalks, it is hard to believe that there are only 2 1/2 months left in the school year and that we will be heading home soon!

San Luca

2010-03-07T13:40:00.004+01:00

This weekend, Niraj and I finally did the ultimate tourist thing in Bologna. It was one of the first sunny days that we have had here in a long time (it has been a non-stop week of rain and snow lately) so we thought it was a great day to finally go check it out.

We ventured up the hills outside the city walls to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. The journey to San Luca consists of a 3.5 km long walkway covered by porticoes the entire way! There are a total of 666 arches, making it the longest stretch of its kind in the world. It was definitely a hike to get up there though!

The Porticoes

Once we got up there we saw beautiful views of the mountains and the valleys surrounding the city. Here are a few pictures:

We made it up there right at sunset, so it was nice to see a sunset over the mountains again!

In front of the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca

Inside one of the towers of the church with the mountains through the window

View of Emilia-Romagna

A hidden gem

2010-02-26T10:04:00.004+01:00

Last night was interesting for a few reasons.

First, some students got together for a drink at a small Osteria. Once we got there, we were informed that it was a "Communist bar." Funny thing was, the place was full of SAIS students and the owners (who were there having a glass of wine with the rest of us) love Americans! Go figure...

The second, most impressive, reason the night was interesting was because we discovered Bologna's true hidden gem. While walking home with a classmate, Niraj and I were told about a small bakery around the corner that was only open from midnight to 6AM. It is there where pastries and calzones for the city bakeries and bars are made fresh all night long and delivered the next morning. This place is completely inconspicuous, and the only way you would ever notice it is if you were told it was there. We walked in, and immediately our jaws dropped. Inside it was very calm and quiet, and two men were slaving away rolling out dough, filling crossiants, and baking many delicious pastries. And the best part, for only 1 euro you can pick anything in the shop and eat it warm out of the oven! Definitely one of the coolest things I have found in Bologna.

Guess when you wander the streets of Italy you never know what things you'll stumble across.

Amazing Andalucia

2010-02-23T13:00:00.002+01:00

So, I'm finally getting around to writing about our incredible week in Andalucia (region of southern Spain). We went during Niraj's semester break; it was a great vacation and nice to get out of Bologna for a bit. I know this entry is long overdue, but there has been so much to say I didn't even know where to begin. I guess I'll start in the beginning...

Our trip started in Sevilla: the city of Flamenco, Don Juan, and the third largest cathedral in the world. We arrived on a Wednesday evening, and were treated that night with a Moroccan dinner at the hostel where we stayed. They brought in a local chef who made an amazing chicken dinner in the largest wok I have ever seen! He grilled vegetables of all types with many various seasonings (cumin being the most prominent), threw in some chicken, and topped it all off with couscous at the very end. We were able to get to know some of the people in the hostel and just have a relaxing evening.

Thursday, we did an incredible walking tour of the city. Our guide was Australian, and he knew all the inside stories and history of the city. It's amazing how everywhere we have been we always run into Australians that were backpacking and ended up quitting their jobs to settle someplace random simply because they loved it. We heard all about the legend of Don Juan serenading the nun, the hauntings of the Alfonso Hotel, and the ghost stories of Santa Cruz. We walked along the riverfront, saw the Golden tower that used to serve as a lookout tower for the Moors, stumbled upon Roman ruins, and learned bullfighting moves while standing in front of the bull ring. We saw rings on the sides of walls that were "parking spots" for horses, learned about the acorn rating of ham (higher is better because it's less salty, 5 is maximum) and concluded the tour with a beer in El Salvador Square. We met two guys from England on the trip and had tapas with them after the tour. Tapas is an incredible phenomenon and a great way to taste a variety of dishes. Among other things, we had espinacas con cinco quesos (spinach w/5 cheeses), ham, and croquettas de jamon (fried ham and cheese sticks). After the tour Niraj and I ventured over to the large and stunning Piazza da Espana which was constructed in 1929 for the Spanish American Exhibition, and we also wandered across town to see the ruins of a Roman aqueduct. Our day concluded with more tapas and sangria when we went on a tapas tour with a small group of people from the hostel.

The next day in Sevilla was when we ventured into the truly touristy sights. We started off the morning by sitting in on mass at the famous Sevilla Cathedral, and I had the privilege of taking communion there as well! As I mentioned before, this cathedral is the third largest in the world and is unique because of it's Moorish influences (it was even a Mosque at one point). Inside the cathedral is a breathtaking altarpiece that consists of more than three tons of gold that was all brought over from the New World! Other interesting parts of the Cathedral were the tomb of Christopher Columbus (although there is a debate apparently of where he is actually buried) and the Treasury room where we saw a pearl and silver "workshop" that was made in Gujarat (the state where Niraj's family is from). We also climbed the ramps into the top of the belltower to see stunning views of the entire city.

After the cathedral we explored the Alcazar Palace. Like all other Andalucian sites, it was fascinating to see the Moorish architecture and Arabic influence... this was the first time I had ever been in a place with prominent Muslim history. Inside the palace we wandered the gardens, saw the peacocks, and just marveled at the architecture and perfection of the entire place. Although, I did learn that the Moors would always intentionally have one imperfection hidden in their works of art because only God, not humans, can be perfect. We concluded the day with the best tapas meal of the entire trip at a place called Caramela (we sat at the bar and the bartender gave us a custom tapas tour!) and a Flamenco show which definitely was one of the highlights of the entire week! Our tour guide had recommended this very intimate theater with only 25 or so guests allowed. There were 2 guitar players and a singer who opened the show and provided music for the dancers. A male dancer had a solo initially and was followed by a woman solo. Both were absolutely incredible and were completely engulfed by the dance. Such a treat!

Sevilla Pictures

On Saturday we ventured into Ronda, one of the white hilltop towns which was a completely different experience from all the other towns on our itinerary. From the viewpoints throughout the town you can see into the entire valley which seems to go on forever. All of the houses have white walls, and there is the famous Puenta Nuevo bridge in the middle of town going over the gorge. When we arrived we had tapas at a local bar recommended to us by our hotel owner, and gorged ourselves with spinach croquettas, ham and cheese croquettas, and french fries with various sauces. It was also here in Ronda that we stumbled upon Mojo Picon! This fantastic sauce is orangish in color, is spicy, and is served over potatoes and meat dishes. It was so delicious and was Niraj's favorite!

During our stay in Ronda, we hiked around town to get different viewpoints of the bridge, saw the bullring (Ronda was the birthplace of modern bullfighting), and explored the brick ruins of the old castles and city walls. For dinner that day we bought ham and cheese from a local market, and ate it outside overlooking the valley with a bottle of wine purchased from the local wine museum. Here we did have a transportation problem and ended up being stuck in Ronda for an extra day. During this extra time we saw Alcazar palace ruins and the original gate to the city. We also wandered around the Museo de Ronda, got lost in the winding streets, and watched local boys play football in the main square. Overall, the weather was perfect, the sun was shining, and it was an extremely quiet, relaxing town.

Ronda Pictures

Once we finally were able to leave Ronda, we took a bus to a train station in the middle of nowhere and then took a train to Cordoba. We spent Monday in Cordoba. The main attraction and highlight of this city is the Mezquita. This was the most amazing church I have ever seen, and I cannot even begin to describe how incredible it was inside. The Mezquita was originally built as a mosque, but like nearly every other structure in Andalucia it was eventually partially converted into a Cathedral. When you walk inside, all you see are arches and pillars covering the interior. These arches are very unique with their red and white stripped pattern, similar to candy canes. The architect used original Roman pillars from the ruins and red brick to create this innovative and stunning design. The rows and columns are in perfect alignment and are absolutely breathtaking. Inside is an original and very ornate Mihrab and a tresor with various artifacts. There are also ruins of the original doors and walls from the Roman empire, and an altarpiece and choir were built inside the Mosque. The choir chairs are made entirely from wood from the New World, and it is so bizarre and fascinating to see parts of a cathedral inside a Mosque! Outside the Mezquita is a courtyard with various orange trees and yet another bell tower. I think for both of us, this was definitely a highlight and surpasses nearly other cathedral and church we have seen!

We spent the rest of our day in Cordoba walking around the Jewish Quarter, exploring the Roman bridge which led to the city tower and original city gate, and enjoying local cuisine. We had lunch at a Taberna where the owner once again picked out our tapas entries for us. That afternoon we sampled the famous Mortilla (similar to a sherry and unique to the region), the local red dessert wine (Pedro Ximenez Vino Dulce), and a Pastel dessert (a flaky pastry with an apple compote inside). Overall, Cordoba was a great day trip... with the Mezquita definitely overshadowing everything else in the city!

Cordoba Pictures

The last stop on our tour was Granada, where we spent Tuesday through Thursday. On our first morning we discovered a pastry shop that we ended up frequenting every day during our stay, figuring we had to sample as many treats as possible! As a random sidenote, Granada residents seem to have an obsession with donuts. We even saw a "Dunkin Coffee" here! That was probably one of the highlights for Niraj since he hasn't been able to get a Dunkacchino for awhile now... it was definitely a random sighting though!

Our first day we saw the Cathedral, which is known for a controversial feature on the side of its walls. Inscribed in the stone is the name of fascist leader Jose Antonio Primo de Rivera. His inscribed name is the source of great debate because the city of Granada never covered it up. Near the cathedral is the Capilla Real, and inside there we were able to see many items from the reign of Ferdinand and Isabel. We saw her saber and crown, their clothes and robes, and even saw their tombs in the crypt!

From Capilla Real we ventured across many different parts of the city. We had lunch in Plaza Nueva, walked up the hill to Barrio Sacromonte to see the gypsy caves, Arab baths, and flamenco restaurants, had a drink and crazy-fish-eye tapas outside in the sun while being serenaded by a guitar player, wandered through the gypsy neighborhood of Albaicin, and ended up at Plaza San Nicolas. From there we had stunning views of the Alhambra, the city, and the snow-capped Sierra Nevadas. After wandering our way up to San Nicolas, we walked back down off the hill to Plaza San Miguel Bajo where we had more gorgeous views of the Cathedral and downtown Granada. Our first full day in the city ended with dinner at a Lebanese restaurant in the Little Morocco quarter where we had amazing hummus, pita, shish kabob, and kefta... yum!

The highlight of day two in Granada was seeing the Alhambra. People had told us to allow at least half a day there, and when I heard that I honestly could not imagine spending that long in one place! However, once we arrived and saw how enormous and intricate the entire place was, we realized we could easily spend 5 hours exploring it... and we did! We explored the Alcazar, the Palacio, the Washington Irving Museum, and the General Life gardens. Again, Niraj and I were both amazed and in awe at the level of detail in the decorations and mosaics inside the Palace! I mean, EVERY inch of the Alhambra was covered in intricate details, and it was fascinating to see more examples of Moorish history and influence. The rest of our day was relaxing and more low-key and consisted simply of having drinks with a couple from Berkley that we met during the week and going out for Sushi and Teriyaki for dinner. (Can you tell we were excited to get away from Italian food for awhile? Bologna does not have all these options so we had to indulge!)

Our final day in Granada we relaxed and just took in the food, the culture, and the shops as much as we could before leaving. For breakfast we ate tostadas and churros con chocolate (you dip fried churros into hot chocolate, so amazing!) at the famous Cafe Bib-Rambla. In between meals (yes, I know it sounds like all we do is eat on these trips) we spent hours walking around looking for clothes, shoes, and souvenirs. For lunch, we stumbled upon this medieval themed bar that was very tiny and run single-handedly by the owner. We had pork sandwich with olive oil and garlic aioli, steak fajita, and Alhambra beer. This was probably one of the best meals we had the entire week... simple yet delicious. And from there, we ventured into the airport and flew back to Bologna.

Granada Pictures

As you can tell, this was a fabulous trip. We did so many new things and saw so many incredible sights, so we want to remember as many details as possible (hence this insanely long entry!). Spain is definitely an incredible country, and now we are both eager to keep exploring new countries and parts of the world... especially places where we can see more Moorish architecture!

Scandalo e coruption a Bologna

2010-02-20T11:01:00.000+01:00

I haven't yet written about politics or Italian government, but there have been some recent events of interest I figured I'd share. Watching the Italian government and their overall way of getting things done has been a somewhat amusing (yet frustrating) past-time, mainly because everything seems so inefficient and corrupt. And these recent Bolognese events show just that!

Typically, the corruption you hear about involves Silvio Berlusconi, the infamous Italian Prime Minister known for alleged Mafia links, excessive control of the Italian media, derogatory treatment of women, and, of course, his recent attack in Milan. Flavio Delbono, the mayor of Bologna, recently made headlines as well, however.

Mayor Delbono came to speak to the students of Johns Hopkins at the beginning of the term. He has been a professor at Hopkins and at the University of Bologna (UniBo) and is a highly educated economist. The fact that Niraj and I heard him speak in such an intimate setting and that he has ties to SAIS makes all this just that more crazy (and, as bad as this may sound, that much more entertaining)!

In the past few weeks, a scandal has erupted in Bologna accusing the Mayor of using taxpayer dollars and council money to fund the affairs he was having. Apparently, he abused his power and embezzled money in order to pay for romantic getaways and extravagant property purchases. Well the story broke, and he was since been forced to resign. So, now there is a woman temporarily in power until the next election in 2011. The Bolognese are all up in arms now not only because of what the Mayor did but also because of what happens now. The region will not hold interim elections to elect a new Mayor, so the temporary replacement has to hold down the fort until then... which means she can do the day to day stuff but cannot make any major decisions. So, in typical Italian fashion, the city of Bologna is deadlocked!

The other kick of the story is that every government employee that he appointed during his tenure was forced to resign as well. One specific case was Nicoletta Mantovani, the widow of Luciano Pavarotti. I also heard her speak a few days ago in an intimate setting, so here is a brief background on that story...

Nicoletta and Pavarotti were both from Emilia-Romagna (Nicoletta from Bologna and Pavarotti from Modena), and they unintentionally met before one of his performances. After talking for a short while, Pavarotti offered her the job to be his personal assistant. Nicoletta was not there to apply for the job, but after some convincing from him decided to accept. Shortly thereafter the two began their affair... Pavarotti was not yet divorced and Nicoletta was 33 years his junior! More scandal! They eventually married, and she continued to plan his events and assisted in his endeavors and organizations until his death.

Until recently when she was forced to resign, Nicoletta was the Bologna City councillor and professional event planner dealing with many major festivals in Bologna and nearby cities. Being put in this position apparently also caused an uproar with accusations that she was appointed based on her status/money and not her background (her background was more natural sciences than the arts). Just another example of corruption and scandal in Italian government I suppose!

Allora, there's the gist of the Bolognese news lately. It sometimes feels like the city of Bologna is in a bubble without any connection to or realization of the world around it, so to some extent that bubble popped! Who knows what'll happen next...

Carnevale di Venezia

2010-02-16T13:44:00.007+01:00

Carnevale 2010 ... What an Experience!

My friend Kate and I went to Venezia for the day on Saturday to check out the Carnevale festivities (unfortunately it was while Niraj had 3 Saturday classes so he had to miss out). It can almost be thought of as Mardi Gras and Halloween all rolled into one, and the costumes are spectacular! See for yourself in these pictures.

We spent the day walking around the city, and every time we turned a corner we would see another breathtaking costume. The Venetians (or whoever they were...) dressed up would gladly stop and pose for pictures, probably happy to show off their masks, make-up, and stunning costumes. There were adults and children of all ages with costumes ranging from colonial-type period outfits, story book characters, animals, and other various colorful figures. A lot of the costumes had almost a dark, mischievous, and almost scandalous side to them which made me wonder what the origins of this festival really are...

In Piazza San Marco there were multiple stages set up with various performances throughout the day. We watched one show near the cuckoo clock which was again a bit twisted and dark. Various men in plastic-looking costumes and expressive face paint came out of the clock as if they were figurines built into the clock. They then proceeded to mime out various skits, yet all the skits seemed to end with them whacking each other on the head with a large club or playing some sort of evil trick! Again, makes you wonder what the real origins of this festival are...

But the masks, oh the masks! I definitely have an obsession with masks and the idea of masquerades, and I have always loved seeing the intricate, colorful, playful masks in the shop windows each time I have been in Venice. Yet it was amazing and a whole new adventure to see them all come alive on the streets on Saturday! Kate and I had a ball people watching, costume watching, and just soaking in the festivities.

All in all, definitely one of the coolest things I have done in Italy so far. I love Halloween and dressing up, and this took it to a whole other level.

Funny thing is, I got back that night with news from Niraj that there was a last minute "Under The Sea" party being thrown by a group of students. So, with the spirit of costumes still in my veins, I had to throw together something for us to wear. After a burst of inspiration, we decided to go as Pi Patel and his Bengal Tiger from the Book Life of Pi. Get it? Ha, ha... clever I know. Here are our "genius" costumes. It was a random night, but we had a good time hanging out with seaweed, starfish, penguins, and other under the sea creatures.

So, that's probably all the costume talk for now, but I'll probably be dreaming of masks and carnevale creatures for some time to come...

We had a ball in Vienna!

2010-02-05T18:17:00.006+01:00

Wow, what a weekend we just had! Niraj and I had the privilege of attending the IAEA formal ball in Vienna during the height of the ball season. Vienna is definitely a city of music, culture, and sophistication... and what better way to enjoy our first visit to the city than by attending a ball. Here are the Ball Pictures!

The Austrian students at Johns Hopkins organized the whole trip, and I think about 120 or so students ended up attending. We hopped on a bus Friday night, arrived Saturday morning, spent Saturday afternoon wandering Vienna, went to the ball Saturday night, wandered some more Sunday, and drove back Sunday night.

In terms of the non-Ball activities, we were able to get a good feel of the city by walking around in the freezing cold those couple of days. We went to the Belevedere Art Museum, went inside St. Stephen's Cathedral, had Sunday brunch at a cafe in Museum Quarter, watched ice skaters outside City Hall, grabbed a spicy sausage from a street vendor, saw Parliament Building, ate traditional Viennese hot sweets, drank Gluhwein (Viennese mulled wine), and sat in Cafe Central listening to a piano player and enjoying a piece of the famous Sacher-Torte.

But clearly those were not the real highlights of the trip...

Our unforgettable evening began (after hours of getting ready, or at least of me getting ready) at 6PM by attending a cocktail reception thrown for us by the Mayor of Vienna. It was in the basement of City Hall near his restaurant, and it was a nice intimate time to drink some wine and marvel at how good we all looked! (It was almost impossible to recognize people when they got all dressed up for this!) It was a perfect, relaxing way to kick off the evening.

After the reception, we all headed over in groups to Hofburg Palace for the main event. We didn't want to miss the opening ceremonies, but we also didn't want to go the whole night without eating, so we grabbed falafels/kabobs/pizza from the street vendors on our way over. What a classy group we all were in gowns and tuxes downing food on the street!

When we first walked into the Palace, it really did take my breath away. There was red carpet leading up the grand main staircase, and chandeliers covered the lobby. People in beautiful gowns and sharp tuxes were taking pictures and mingling, and everyone was slowly making their way up to the Main Ballroom for the big Opening Ceremony.

Walking into the Main Ballroom for the first time took my breath away yet again. The architectural details of the walls, the colorful frescoes on the ceiling, the thousands of people lined up along the edges of the room, and the magnificent orchestra were only a few of the stunning features. I mean, we were in a Palace! How can I even begin to describe how stunning everything was!

The Opening Ceremony consisted of many stages, beginning with a processional of the Austrian flag and a speech by this year's M.C. From there, we were all highly entertained by a group of Korean percussionists who danced, flipped, and drummed a perfect routine. As can be seen from the pictures, they had ribbons attached to their heads that went every possible direction yet looked so artistic! Then there was opera singing from members of the IAEA, followed by the traditional opening ceremony waltz. This was really unique because in a way it resembled a Debutante ball... there were rows of young girls dressed all in white, holding flowers, partnered with young men in tuxes. The whole group did a traditional Viennese Waltz to formally kick off the event.

The rest of the night was just as incredible as the beginning ceremonies. The whole palace was divided into rooms, each with different live bands playing different types of music. There was waltz, salsa, 80s, disco, hip hop, Celtic, swing, and so much more! Niraj and I didn't even begin to touch all the different rooms! The night was spent wandering from room to room, dancing, people watching, and just soaking in our surroundings. Niraj and I did venture out onto the dance floor to try a Viennese waltz... we tried doing the steps we had learned, but it seemed everywhere we turned we ran into other people! We never did get the hang of the moving-circle-aspect of the waltz but had a great time trying!

All in all, it was a fantastic evening and a wonderful weekend. We were very lucky to have this opportunity and could not have asked for a better way to get a glimpse of Ball Season!

"Eat, Pray, Love"

2010-01-25T16:58:00.005+01:00

I know that I said I wouldn't post anything new until we get back from Spain, but there is something I came across that I wanted to share. I also wanted to remember it forever, and this blog is as much a journal for us as it is updates for everyone else.

I'm currently reading a book for my Book Club titled "Eat, Pray, Love" by Elizabeth Gilbert. It's about a woman who spends a year living abroad to have an adventure and to try to get her life back on track. Her goal is to learn about food in Italy, religion in India, and the balance of the two in Indonesia. I was amazed at how much her experiences in Italy rang true to me and how much it mirrored the experience that Niraj and I are having over here! In particular, the following two excerpts really stood out, and I wanted to share.

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"I met a young Australian girl last week who was backpacking through Europe for the first time in her life. I gave her directions to the train station... When I heard her travel plans, I was stricken with a dumb spasm of jealousy, thinking I want to go to Slovenia! How come I never get to go anywhere? Now, to the innocent eye it might appear that I already am traveling. And longing to travel while you are already traveling is, I admit, a king of greedy madness... But the fact that this girl asked directions from me (clearly, in her mind, a civilian) suggests that I am not technically traveling in Rome, but living here. However temporary it may be, I am a civilian. When I ran into the girl, in fact, I was just on my way to pay my electricity bill, which is not something travelers worry about. Traveling-to-a-place energy and living-in-a-place energy are two fundamentally different energies, and something about meeting this Australian girl on her way to Slovenia just gave me such a jones to hit the road."

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"...I went to Bologna - a city so beautiful that I couldn't stop singing, the whole time I was there: 'My Bologna has a first name! It's P-R-E-T-T-Y.' Traditionally Bologna - with it's lovely brick architecture and famous wealth - has been called 'The Red, The Fat, and The Beautiful.' The food is definitely better here than in Rome, or maybe they just use more butter. Even the gelato in Bologna is better. The mushrooms here are like big tongues, and the prosciutto drapes over pizzas like a fine lace veil draping over a fancy lady's hat. And of course there is the Bolognese sauce, which laughs disdainfully at any other idea of a ragu. It occurs to me in Bologna that there is no equivalent in English for the term buon appetito. This is a pity, and also very telling. It occurs to me, too, that the train stops of Italy are a tour through the names of the world's most famous foods and wines: next stop, Parma... next stop, Bologna... next stop, approaching Montepulciano."

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So, there you have it... what could almost be a first-hand account of our time "living" in Bologna. Enough said!

Just a Few Quick Things

2010-01-17T12:12:00.004+01:00

I just wanted to write down a few things to update on life recently... short and sweet! Niraj is still in final mode and I've been busy working and planning our upcoming trips, so there are only a few interesting tidbits beyond that.

First fun thing: Niraj and I went to a BYOB event with the wine club last weekend. I thought the event was such a great idea that I had to share it! Since we were all coming back from winter vacation, the idea was to bring a bottle of wine that was either from the place you went over break or from someplace you'd like to go. So as we opened each bottle, people had to tell their story about why/how they chose their wine. It ended up being very interesting! People brought wines from all over Italy and Europe, and there were even a couple from the States that were brought back. It gave us a chance to try MANY different types of wines, and I just thought the whole idea of it was very clever. So, may have to do that again sometime!

Another interesting event that I wanted to share has been regards what the school has been doing to raise money for Haiti. A friend of ours here in Niraj's program has spent many years in Haiti working with "Partners in Health." He was obviously very affected by the tragedy from last week and put in a great deal of time and effort to raise money for the organization through the school. In addition to putting out jars for loose change and setting up websites where people can donate larger amounts, last night was a big "Charitivo" (charity apperitivo) to cap it all off. Myself and the other "ladies of leisure" made appetizer dishes, and people could donate money to buy a small plate of food and some beer/wine. There were people in town that work with the Partners in Health, so the money from the past week was presented to them to take to Haiti. There was an amazing turnout, and last I heard the school ended up raising over 2500 euros!! It was incredible to see people come together and give, even though we are half a world away.

So, guess that's about all for now. We are leaving on Wednesday for Spain and are getting so incredibly anxious! It has been freezing in Bologna this past week, so a bit of sunshine and *hopefully* warm weather is calling our names. Then, from there we head straight to Vienna for the big ball... so next time I write there will be much to talk about!!

Ciao tutti!

Back in the Swing of Things

2010-01-14T18:38:00.002+01:00

I recently realized that it was a bit of a challenge getting used to the Italian lifestyle after being back in the States for two weeks. It's remarkably simple to get used to microwaves, dishwashers, clothes dryers, driving a car, and English television on big screen TVs! It took awhile, but I think I'm finally feeling like an Italian again.

Niraj, on the other hand, didn't have a choice but to get back into full swing right away. This week is his last week of classes and then finals begin (queue some dooms-day music). He has been studying non-stop, and I think he feels like there just aren't enough hours in the day. Ah, the joys of grad school! Anyway, we have a nice 8 day, end-of-term trip to Andalucia (Southern Spain) right after his last final so there is a light at the end of the tunnel... I also just had an exam, part of which consisted of talking for 10 minutes to my Italian instructor about "Mangiare in Italia (Eating in Italy)." I guess if you can do that then can claim your Italian is somewhat decent!

Some more news about Niraj is that he has officially been offered a summer internship with the State Department! He's still applying to other places to see what else is out there, but we were both very excited about the offer and the chance for him to start work in D.C.

On another note, I also wanted to put a link to pictures from our most recent day trip to Siena. So, check 'em out! Siena is a gorgeous town in Tuscany and is exactly what you think of when you envision being under the Tuscan sun. And we even did have sun for part of the day! It was full of tourists, but some of the sights were quite spectacular. It's up in the hills which means you get a nice little workout too while walking across town. They also have the most beautiful Duomo there! You can see in the pictures that the white and gray facade on top of the steps is really gorgeous; however, Niraj said the black-and-white stripped columns inside were reminiscent of Alice In Wonderland. I, on the other hand, thought they were stunning! The most spectacular thing about this cathedral, though, was the floors. Inside the marble floors were covered with pictures and depictions of various saints and Biblical stories. Some of it is even so sacred that they cover up it year round revealing it on only on the high holidays. We also had a fantastic meal at a little tucked away Trattoria (it is Italy after all so you must discuss food!). Niraj had the most amazing yellow squash soup, which apparently is a Tuscan delicacy. That soup alone would probably be worth a trip back! All in all, it was another great day trip.

So, that's about it from our side of the world. We'll be back soon with results from final exams and updates on some BIG TRIPS that we have on the horizon!!

Ciao ragazzi!

Felice Anno Nuovo!

2010-01-01T14:55:00.003+01:00

Happy 2010! Felice Anno Nuovo!

It is hard to believe that 2009 has already ended and that we are through the 1st decade of the 21st century! Niraj and I hope everyone had a great night ringing in the New Year and hope everyone has a wonderful 2010!

We have both been full of the holiday spirit and have been celebrating in many ways. Niraj spent 3 days in Sarajevo over the Christmas holiday while I was back in Denver. He says he spent more time in transit than actually in the city, but that it was just how he pictured it. He got a great taste of Eastern Europe, and is already wanting to go back for more. I had a great time in Denver seeing friends and family, and I also greatly enjoyed pigging out on non-Italian food for awhile! I don't think a burger and fries or the famous holiday green bean casserole has ever tasted so good!

I was back in Bologna for my birthday and had a great day celebrating. Niraj and I went to Venezia (Venice) for the day. We had heard rumors of flooding and how the city was still recovering from the winter storms, but we decided to check it out anyway. We got there, and sure enough the city was flooded! The tide was high and water on sidewalks along the Grand Canal was above the ankles. The city polizia put up elevated planks throughout the city for people to walk on in single-file lines. San Marco's square and inside the famous Basilica was even flooded! It was a lot of fun though, and we definitely saw the city in a new light. By the afternoon the tide receded and everything began to drain out. Check out our Venice Pictures! We made it back to Bologna for dinner, and Niraj surprised me with an ice cream cake from Bologna's best gelato place... complete with candles! It was definitely a great birthday.

Last night was also a great night, and we had a lot of fun celebrating the New Year with our friends here. We started off the evening by going to a friend's place for a big potluck. There were about 20 people, and we spent hours eating amazing food, drinking wine, and just catching up on our breaks. The night even included a game of boys vs. girls charades which always guarantees a good time. Around 22:00 we all headed down to Piazza Maggiore in the city center for the festivities. There was a live band, and it seemed like the entire city of Bologna turned out for the event! When the clock struck midnight, everybody started lighting off fireworks, dancing in the streets, and spraying champagne. We were lucky enough to be surrounded by tons of Niraj's classmates and our friends, and everybody had a great time. A little later we walked down to I Due Torri (the two towers) and continued our dancing in the streets to a live polka band. People were in such great spirits and really enjoyed themselves. It was such a fun night! Below is a picture of Niraj and I in the Piazza, and a picture of me and some of my girls out here.

So, all in all we have had a great holiday season! It's hard to believe that it's almost time to get back to the normal working and school routine, but we were lucky to have so many fun adventures for Christmas and New Years. We even have more travels planned for the weekend, so keep checking back for more stories!

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!! BUON ANNO!!!

Buon Natale! Merry Christmas!

2009-12-07T18:51:00.008+01:00

Buona sera e buon natale!

Before I forget, I wanted to post the pictures from Zermatt (better late than never, right?!). Now maybe you can begin to grasp just how beautiful it is out there! Niraj and I still can't stop talking about the hike up to the house, the cheese fondue, and the wide open slopes.

Since the last post, we have been extremely busy... which is quite typical this time of year. Niraj has been swamped with school papers and final projects, and I got wrapped up in various things around town. I also did a day trip to Florence with the Italian Art History Class which was quite an experience. We went with a woman who is a world-renowned art critic, and I must say your perception of art changes a lot when you look at it with an expert. There were about 20 students there for the day, and we went everywhere from the Uffizi gallery to the museum where David is. I'm still amazed that we are living somewhere where we are able to have breakfast at home, take a short train ride, see amazing sights, and be home again in time for dinner!

Aside from the school work and random excursions, Niraj and I have had a great time getting into the holiday spirit and taking in the decorated city of Bologna. We spent an evening walking around enjoying the lights and the Christmas trees, and it's amazing to think Christmas is only a few days away. There have been many holiday parties, and a lot of time has been spent searching Bologna for the perfect gifts!

I'm currently in Denver enjoying some time with the family, and Niraj is in Bologna buried in 12" of snow! Apparently after I left the city got dumped on. Niraj has been amused watching the unprepared inhabitants of Bologna trying to sand the street w/pseudo-sand-trucks and parallel park in their tiny front wheel drive cars. Below are a few pictures of the school buried in white fluff!

I can't even imagine the city with that much snow, but he is staying warm, getting caught up with school (and sleep), relaxing, and overall enjoying some time off. I'll be heading back just before New Years, and we will then jump immediately into our next travel adventures!

So, I guess that's about all from our end for now. We want to send our best wishes and warm thoughts to all of our friends and family, and we hope you have a very Merry Christmas! We love and miss you all!

BUON NATALE!!!!

Christmas lights and Swiss Alps

2009-12-07T18:45:00.003+01:00

Buona sera e felice Dicembre!

It's hard to believe that December is here and that the holidays are just around the corner. I've been taking more time to walk around Bologna lately just to watch all of the Christmas decorations go up and catch some of the holiday spirit. I decided to bring the Christmas spirit to the apartment as well and splurged on a 1 Euro Christmas tree! Doesn't it look fantastic?! :) And yes, it is sitting on the kitchen table and is slightly less 12" tall...

This city really does seem to come alive this time of year, and you can't help but smile as you walk around town. There are vendors on the street corners roasting chestnuts, a make-shift ice skating rink has been put up on the north end of town, there's a Christmas market around the corner with homemade crafts and cioccolata calda, store windows are covered with garland and snowflakes, shoppers are searching for the perfect gifts, and a giant Christmas tree is now standing in the middle of Piazza Nettuno. The city is full of porticoes that cover all of sidewalks, and there are various decorations hanging in all of them lighting up the streets. These stars are one of the many variations, but so far have been my favorite.

Another wonderful thing about the holidays is that ski season officially begins! And this year Niraj and I did something we've always dreamed of... skied the Swiss Alps!!!

This past weekend we hopped on a bus with 42 other Johns Hopkins students to Zermatt, Switzerland for 2 days of fun in the Alps. A fellow student who is from Switzerland was kind enough to organize the entire thing, so we really did get the locals perspective which made the experience even more special.

Zermatt was an amazing town and the scenery was absolutely breathtaking. Everywhere you look you can see the Matterhorn towering over the town, and you can't help but stop and stare. We stayed at this huge house on top of a hill (literally, we had to do 30 minutes of switchbacks in the snow just to get to the house!!), and when you stepped out of the front door you were looking over the entire village of Zermatt and staring right into the Matterhorn. Our first night in the house everyone hung out in the huge common room (keep in mind there were 44 of us) and had food, talked, danced, and let all of the stress of school melt away.

Once we hiked back down the switchbacks (or slid down as we often ended up doing instead) and ventured into the city, it was just as stunning. There is a river running right through the village, lots of shops and bakeries, and skiiers everywhere. There were white Christmas lights and stars on every building (the Swiss don't seem to like colored Christmas lights), and I even saw a large tower that was transformed into a gigantic Nutcracker!

As for the skiing, it was incredible. After conquering the 90 minute lift ticket line and finally making it to the gondola, Niraj and I were both amazed at how gorgeous the mountain really was. The Matterhorn is in full view the entire time you are skiing, and the trails are all wide open and vast due to the lack of trees. It was still preseason which meant limited number of open slopes, but it also meant a limited number of people which everyone enjoyed. Throughout the resort, you can move around by chairlift, gondola, cable car, T-bar, and even train! I can't even describe how incredible everything was up there.

After skiing, our trip organizer had arranged for a full 3 course meal at a local restaurant. We had salad with famous local meats, bread with cheese fondue, white wine, dessert, and coffee with schnapps. The food was amazing!!! Our table of 4 polished off the cheese fondue and even learned all of the traditions of what to do when you drop your bread in the pot. Our group took over the entire restaurant, and stayed there for hours talking, eating, and enjoying the entire experience. It was the perfect "apres sci" meal!

All in all, our first trip to the Swiss Alps was unforgettable. We got to know many other students here better and were so fortunate to have a local show us around and enhance our experience by teaching us about the culture and the lifestyle.

So, that's been the big news from our end lately. Next week is Niraj's last week of class before the holiday break, so everyone is getting antsy to have some time off. I'm heading back to Denver for Christmas while Niraj travels around here, and then we are talking about going to Slovenia and Croatia for New Years. There are already lots of things being planned for the New Year, so we are always thinking about the next trips and adventures!!

We hope everyone back home is doing well and enjoying the start of winter. Arrivederci per ora! Bye for now!

So much to be thankful for...

2009-11-19T13:43:00.009+01:00

Ciao,

Happy (early) Thanksgiving everyone!!! I have to say that we've been very lucky over here recently. We thought we would have to forego Thanksgiving this year, but Niraj and I have actually had 2 full Thanksgiving feasts and still have one more to go!

Last weekend we were invited out to some friends of ours who live near Reggio. Mariana is an American that Niraj met when he was living in L.A., and her boyfriend Enrico is Italian. There were a total of 10 people at their place (4 Americans, 6 Italians), and the food was incredible! Somehow she miraculously managed to make a full American meal in Italy where having to preorder a turkey weeks in advance from the butcher is only one of the many obstacles to overcome. She made a feast of an 8 kilo turkey, mashed potatoes, stuffing, peas, corn, cornbread muffins, cranberry/blueberry sauce, gravy, grilled onions, green beans, and applesauce. And for dessert... we had a grand total of 5 pies/cakes to choose from! We had chocolate cake, lemon cake, pineapple upside down cake, pumpkin pie, and the BIGGEST apple pie I have ever seen (literally, I think Italians have this impression that we make huge pies so as a result their pie pans are enormous). It was really a joy sharing the holiday with Italians. They were so intrigued by all of it and excited to learn the new food and the new traditions. They definitely imposed their "flare" on the meal by bringing lots of wine and insisting on espresso afterwards, and it was amusing to explain that everything is put on your plate and eaten at once, i.e. there are are no courses. We had such a great night and created many wonderful memories!

Last night was Thanksgiving #2 and was one of the best nights we have had with the students of SAIS since coming here. The student government organized a huge potluck at the school for the nearly 200 students, less than 50% of which are Americans. There were 10 (very large) turkeys and all of the standard fixins and sides. Again, it was amazing how such an American meal can be a success over here, but it was also really fun (and tasty) to see what kinds of flares and twists the non-Americans put on their dishes... especially the breads, stuffings, vegetables and desserts. The director of the University spoke before dinner and told the story of Thanksgiving. explaining all traditions from the Macy's Thanksgiving Parade to the post-Turkey naps. A few students put on a Thanksgiving play reminiscent of ones we would do in elementary school, and we all sat in the auditorium and ate and talked for hours. Again, it was a joy to share this important holiday with Europeans and with our new friends. At our end of the table, everyone especially had a wonderful time telling past Thanksgiving memories, sharing our family traditions, and thinking about the Thanksgiving food we would miss the most. My story was when we replaced the turkey in the oven with a rubber chicken and gave Grandmother a little birthday surprise, remember that year Hays folks?!?! The night ended with a cover band composed of students, Teaching Assistants, and an Economics professor! They even made a poster of the event (below). It really was an amazing night, and I know we will remember this year forever as a very unique, different, yet wonderful Thanksgiving.

And, we still have another potluck at a friend's house on Thursday! I'm pretty sure we are already close to being turkey-ed out... but something tells me we'll make room for more. :)

Besides all the Thanksgivings festivities, there have been lots of exciting things going on the past week. The Bologna chocolate festival was this week... need I say more?? There were chocolate makers here from all over Europe, and it really is amazing what they can do with chocolates. They come in every shape, size, color, flavor you can imagine and it was fun walking around all the tents and gawking at everything. Oh, and the cioccolata calda! So amazing! It is like drinking pudding, and when they make it they have to constantly have it churning since it is so thick. It is really spectacular how all the food and drink here (especially the sweets) is such an artform. Here in Bologna they have also put up a Christmas market down the street from the apartment, and it is exciting and wonderful to enjoy the season and really get in the Christmas spirit.

Yesterday, I also had another grand adventure when I got stuck in the middle of what was practically a mob scene! When I was walking home from the market, I suddenly realized that the street was closed to traffic and all of the buses were sitting empty in a line. There were people everywhere. Apparently there was some big-shot celebrity staying at the hotel there, and TONS of people were waiting outside in the street by their tour bus hoping they'd appear and come out of the hotel. I found the whole thing rather amusing (especially since I had no idea who it was), and just enjoyed the madness! See for yourself...

Things at school are still going well too. Midterms have been in full force so all of the students are stressed and overworked. The language midterms are this week, so we'll see how those go for both of us. Niraj is getting more involved with clubs and things at school, and he is now a part of the academic student government committee. He is working to improve some things for students and for his program in general, including getting weekly lunches with professors set up for the students and coordinating with the students in D.C. to prepare for his second year. We also had Azar Nafisi come speak to us this week, and she was absolutely incredible! She spoke about life in Iran, literature, importance of education, and was overall very moving and compelling. Niraj and I were both awed after coming out of her lecture, and I'm very anxious to read her books now.

Anyways, I suppose that is enough stories for now.

We do want to say that we are both very thankful for everything and everyone. We are so incredibly lucky to have this opportunity and this experience, and we are very blessed to have such wonderful friends and family in our lives. We miss everyone, and hope you all have a HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!

GOBBLE GOBBLE!!!

Random thoughts on the day to day life...

2009-11-14T15:39:00.004+01:00

1) Walking down the street and hearing a man playing the accordion on the corner makes you feel so incredibly Italian.

2) Meeting the girls for coffee at Piazza Maggiore on Saturday morning is quite fabulous.

3) You can't help but smile when you see two little boys running around with giant helium balloons in front of the Cathedral down the street... especially when one of the balloons is Winnie the Pooh.

4) It's fascinating that the woman who owns the tiny pottery shop on the way to school sits inside all day every day making/painting her artwork.

5) It's fun when the man who runs the produce stand considers you a "regular" and throws extra bananas, tomatoes, and clementines into your bag.

6) It's hard not to feel proud when the checkout clerk at the grocery store is impressed because you (the American) are buying a pizza pan so you can try making pizza at home.

7) It is still hard to beat a great class of wine in the evening!

Prosciutto, Parmesan, and Rain... oh my!

2009-11-09T09:33:00.003+01:00

Ciao tutti! Just thought I'd write again to share out latest weekend adventures...

On Friday night, Niraj and I met some friends for an appertivi in the University District. They had found this amazing little restaurant that used to be an old house. It was 3 stories and each level of the house had it's own tables and a bar. The decor was gorgeous, and it did feel like you were in somebody's house! It was very quaint and definitely worth going back to. We all had a Spritz (a popular Itlian cocktail consisting of a fizzy white wine called Prosseco and Aperol Liqueor... yum!) and talked for hours. It was a great evening.

Saturday, I decided to explore the city some while Niraj locked himself in the library and ventured out to do some shopping. They are beginning to put up Christmas decorations and lights everywhere in Bologna (they don't celebrate Thanksgiving here so it's ok to do this so early... haha) and the city is starting to buzz with excitement! I cannot wait until the turn all the lights on, and you can count on pictures of that. That night, Niraj and I decided to make a full, home cooked feast. We made salad, lemon/garlic balsamic dressing (made with AMAZING balsamic vinegar from the local town of Modena), bruschetta, homemade bread, Spaghetti Carbonera, and a nice Pinot Grigio. The picture below doesn't even describe how amazing this food was! We were both quite impressed with how we're slowly mastering Italian cooking, and we filled ourselves to the brim! :)

Yesterday was the biggest adventure of the weekend, however. We decided to do a day trip to nearby Parma. We arrived at the train station early to catch the 8:30 train only to find out that nearly every train leaving that station was canceled. So not thinking anything of it, we waited around for awhile and managed to get one out of Bologna just before 10:00. We arrived in Parma a bit after 11:00 and walked outside to pouring rain and freezing temperatures! That didn't stop these two determined travelers though, and we faced the rain. We spent a few hours exploring the town which really is beautiful. It was a lot smaller than Bologna and very quiet (probably an effect of the rain and the fact that it was Sunday). We sat in on Sunday Mass at the Madonna Cathedral, saw the famous pink-marble Baptisery and its amazing frescoes, walked around the Duomo Cathedral, found the old town Pharmacy, walked along the riverfront, and explored the area and parks around the Government buildings. We saw some amazing sights, but it was a hilarious day due to being soaked head to toe and having umbrella difficulties. I now know that if you buy a 3 Euro umbrella you get what you pay for (and yes, I do know it was inside out in the pictures, but I had no control over it!!!). I've put the pictures below, so check them out!

Parma Pictures

Probably the best part of Parma was our lunch. YUM!!! We went to this quiet little trattoria tucked away in a small alley, and it was one of the best meals either of us has ever had. We started off with the famous, local, incredible plate of Parma's Prosciutto and Parmesan Cheese which is eaten with Torta Fritta (a type of warm, soft fried bread). This meat and cheese was unlike anything else and it was incredible... no wonder it made the town famous! Then Niraj had pumpkin tortelli, and I had tortelli stuffed wtih prosciutto and cheese. Both were again topped with Parmesan and covered in oil and butter. We also enjoyed some house red wine, and concluded the meal with a piece of chocolate cake that literally melted in your mouth. We sat there about 2 hours, watched other Italians eat to learn "proper" etiquette, and walked out in a food coma.

Our adventure didn't end there though, because once we arrived back at the train station to head back home, we again noticed nearly every train was canceled. In summary, there was a train strike and we were stuck in the station for over 3 hours!! We finally made it out on a jammed packed train, and our short little day trip turned into a 12 hour journey! Needless to say we'll be checking to see if it's a strike day before venturing out from now on...

So, that's our latest Italian weekend! This week we have the typical classes and work, but there are some interesting events and speakers happening at school that we'll keep everyone posted on. So, happy Monday!

Trick or Treat!

2009-11-04T13:46:00.005+01:00

Well it is now November, and I have officially been here over a month which does not seem possible! Niraj has been here over 2 months and it's amazing how fast time is going. Fall is in full swing with cooler temperatures, changing leaves, and a sense that winter is just around the corner.

We had a fantastic Halloween weekend, especially considering Italians don't really do Halloween. The city's only festivities consisted of a few ghosts hanging from lampposts on random streets and stores putting up a few spiderwebs and plastic pumpkins in their windows (which by the way is very misleading when you're looking for Halloween goodies because that does not mean they actually sell Halloween stuff). We did manage to carve a pumpkin out here though!

Saturday we actually had a Deep Dish Pizza Party (which I know all you Seattle-ites will appreciate!!). We made our famous deep dish pizzas from scratch for some friends of ours. We had 3 pizzas for 4 Americans, 1 Colombian, 2 Canadians, and an Englishman... and we couldn't help but wonder what an Italian would think of the gigantic pizzas! It was a great night, the pizza was fantastic, and below is a picture of Niraj anxious to sink his teeth into them.

Sunday night the entire school got costumed-up for the big annual Halloween party. It was a great time, and there were some fanstastic costumes. It was impressive how creative people were and how much everyone enjoyed getting all dressed up! I was a gypsy-pirate and was quite proud of how my thrown-together costume turned out. Niraj was a street vendor selling roses. For those of you who have not been to Italy, there are always Indian men out in the streets at night with roses for 1 euro each. They walk up to your table in restaurants and also just approach you on the street. So Niraj threw on tennis shoes, a beanie, and a wool scarf, bought some plastic roses, and proceeded to approach everybody at the party (without saying a word) to try to get them to buy his roses. He was a HUGE HIT!!! Everybody loved it and thought it was hysterical, and he even won 2nd place in the costume contest! It was hilarious, especially when a "real" rose vendor walked into the party (you can see him in the pictures). So, needless to say we had a fantastic time!

Halloween Pictures ... Boo!

Other than that, things are still moving along. We went out to a nice dinner the other night at a little Trattoria and had amazing Tortellini Bolognese and Lasagna Verdi. We are getting anxious for Thanksgiving and many of the Americans are trying to figure out how to make a traditional Thanksgiving feast. I'm sure it'll be interesting, and I'll let everyone know how it turns out. We have some more day trips planned for the near future, and we are also hoping to put together a short trip for New Years... any suggestions on where to go??

So until next time, enjoy fall, stay warm, and keep in touch... ciao!

Verona and Bocelli

2009-10-25T17:53:00.003+01:00

Buona sera,

It has been another fantastic (yet rainy and very wet) week here in Bologna.

Niraj is still hard at work, but is getting to know his classmates better which is exciting. The people in his program are from all over the world including Germany, Austria, Colombia, Canada, Belgium, Croatia, Bosnia, Russia, Portugal, Azerbaijan, Japan, Holland, Croatia, and many more. We are starting to plan more big excursions, and it's nice to have people offer insight and travel tips into their hometowns.

As for me, I am having a blast getting more soaked into the Italian lifestyle. I am really starting to enjoy cooking out here and am getting more ambitious every day. My latest adventures have been chocolate and ricotta cake, baked ziti, and homemade bread (which I am waiting to rise right now but isn't looking so promising...) .

I am also meeting some girls who are also here as non-students, and we are having fun exploring the city together. There is even an official group of English speaking, professional women in Bologna who organize book clubs, cocktail and coffee hours, dinners, etc. The president of this group is actually married to the former CEO of Ducati (you should see their penthouse apartment! quite impressive!), so if nothing else maybe I'll get some sort of tour of Ducati while I'm here!

This weekend we had another adventure and went to Verona for the day/evening. Andrea Bocelli was singing in the Teatro Filarmonico, so a group of 20 or so students got together to go hear him. I went out earlier with a friend to explore the city, and then we all met up for dinner and the show. Verona was gorgeous and very different from Bologna. The city is very relaxed and seemed much slower paced than where we are living. The squares were full of street vendors and markets, and they were selling some of the most gorgeous masks that I have ever seen! Of course we went to Romeo's House and Julet's Balcony, but we also saw the Castle and some of the old churches. One of the best parts of the day was when we went to this very small bar for a glass of wine and an appertivo. The entire place probably only sat 10 people, and you could tell we were the only non-regulars there. At one point, the bartender (who also was enjoying some wine) and 2 other men in the bar started singing along with the Italian love songs that were playing. It was perfect! The concert was also incredible of course, and we really enjoyed the symphony and the music. After the concert the entire group went to a Trattoria for dinner, and they set up a huge table for us in their wine cellar where we sat for nearly 3 hours. They had hundreds of bottles back there, some of which were 25 years old! It was a very typical, slow Italian meal and was fantastic.

Here are the pictures from the day/evening:
Verona Pictures

And as a side-note, how bout them Broncos? 6-0!!! Niraj is getting really excited for the Bears game tonight and is actually staring at ChicagoBears.com right now. Kickoff is at 2215 here, and we are planning to stream it and watch online. So... go Bears!

So until next time, Happy Halloween and ciao!

Fall into Fall!

2009-10-19T10:39:00.002+02:00

Fall has officially arrived in Bologna (seemed like overnight the temperature dropped 30 degrees), and it is fantastic. The sun is shining everyday and it is nice and cool outside. It's strange not seeing lots of scarecrows and carved pumpkins though! The Italians just need to get into Fall and Halloween more I guess...

Niraj is still keeping busy with his classes and is starting to have papers and presentations pile up. He's taking two econ classes, an American Foreign Policy class, a class on Science and Technology and policy-making, and Spanish. The students here are really starting to get more into the program, and it seems like every get-together sparks some discussion or debate! I told him the other day how weird it is to have these types of discussions now and how it's even stranger that I have not run into another engineer since coming here! My Italian class started last week, and I love it. The class is very intense, and my teacher walked in on the first day saying how that was the only English we would hear all semester. The class is really small though, and I'm hoping to learn a lot.

We had a fantastic weekend hanging out with the friends that we are making through SAIS. On Saturday we explored the Bologna Flea Market which was unlike anything I have ever seen! The market takes over an entire piazza every Friday and Saturday, and the tents seem to go on forever in all directions. They have the standard flea market junk (kitchenwares, knick-knacks, etc) but they also have nice clothes, shoes and anything you could ever need. So, that was definitely a great find. Saturday night some friends had a BBQ which was a great opportunity to eat some good food, get to know people better, and just relax. Then last night, to cap off the weekend, I decided to try some real home cooked Italian food and not just the "instant" meals we've been eating (which are also quite yummy by the way). I made Spaghetti Carbonera with pancetta, fresh Spaghetti noodles, and fresh Parmesan cheese. It was fantastic!!

So, overall things are falling into place more and more each day. We are always looking into more weekend trips and have some exciting things coming up. On Friday we are going to Verona to hear Andrea Bocelli, and November is slowly filling up with chocolate festivals and a potential trip to Vienna (keep your fingers crossed that one works out).

We miss everyone and love hearing what is going on back in the States so keep us posted!

Ciao!
Danielle

Little Bit of History and Stunning Mosaics

2009-10-12T19:11:00.007+02:00

Hello again and happy Monday,

First of all, I must say something completely unrelated to Bologna or Italia... GO BRONCOS!!!! 5-0!!! And keep your fingers crossed for the Rockies! (I'm sure Niraj will have similar comments about the Bears performance next week so stay tuned...)

Ok, now on to serious business. :)

This weekend was really fantastic and provided some more sightseeing opportunities. On Saturday, Niraj and I did a walking tour of Bologna which we both really enjoyed. It was our first time starting to learn the history of this city and realizing exactly what it is we are looking at while walking down the street. One of the more interesting tidbits that I learned is that the main cathedral in Piazza Maggiore (the main square) was never finished! Rumor has it that when the city decided to build it they wanted to make it the largest cathedral, even bigger than the Vatican. Of course the Pope would not allow this, so midway through construction he decided to order the construction of palaces right next to it which would block additional growth. So, the cathedral is not finished and you can even see 1/2 windows and 1/2 arches on the sides where it was suppossed to be bigger! Take a look... the first picture is the cathedral (even the facade was never completed), the second picture you can see a 1/2 window on the right side of the church (right above the point on the tent), and the third picture you can see the start of the arch where the church was to be expanded outward. I'm excited to learn more about this city and will share more pictures as I continue exploring.

Yesterday we hopped on a train and did a day trip to Ravenna which is about 1 hour southeast of Bologna. It was a small, sleepy town that seems to still be stuck in the middle ages, and it was truly fascinating. Ravenna is known for its Mosaics which are everywhere in the city. We went into 5 or 6 different churches, and each one had floor to ceiling art that was made completely of tiny glass, colored stones. It was incredible! I've been to the Vatican and many other amazing churches completely covered in paintings, and this was equally as remarkable! The stones have been incredibly preserved considering these churches dated back to 600AD, and it is hard to grasp that the entire wall and ceiling was created by hand-placing the mosaics. I posted pictures and the link is below. Even in some of the pictures you can make out the individual stones, and just try to imagine seeing it in person!

Ravenna Pictures

Now we are into another week of classes and such. Niraj is getting more into his classes, and my Italian course starts tomorrow. Oh, and of course we are still eating well. After all, Bologna's nickname is "la grassa" or "the fat one" due to the amazing eats, haha!

Ciao!

Benvenuti a Bologna!

2009-10-09T13:02:00.002+02:00

Buongiorno a tutti,

Niraj and I have decided to blog our adventures, day to day life, and anything else that presents itself not only to keep in touch with those we left behind in the States but also as a reminder to us of everything we did here! So, welcome to our life...

I have been here just over two weeks now, and Niraj has been here a month longer than that. Niraj has successfully completed his pre-term courses with flying colors, and this week has marked the beginning of the fall semester. He's been busy getting back into "school-mode" and figuring out how to survive the hundreds of pages of "suggested" reading! The people in his program are definitely very diverse and are from all parts of the world with all sorts of backgrounds. The majority of them seem very friendly and anxious to meet people which is encouraging. Since being here we have also both ventured to Munich for Oktoberfest and had a blast out there!

Day to day life has definitely been a big adjustment, but we're both starting to feel like we're getting settled. The apartment we are living in is fantastic and is beginning to feel like a home away from home. There is a balcony which looks into a small courtyard and all the neighbors apartments (and once I learn Italian I can understand what they are saying!). We are in a fantastic location and within walking distance to most things, and overall the apartment seems very large for European housing. It definitely has its quirks though! For example, turning on the washing machine (which is in the kitchen of course), using a computer, and turning on any lights will most definitely blow the power out. To enter the apartment it is necessary to turn the key around four times and then push on the door with the key still in the lock. Hanging the clothes on the line outside to dry and forgetting to bring them in when it starts to rain is never a good idea. The rock band that rehearses next door practices the same song for weeks and appears to love American Classic Rock. And finally, no matter how you sit on the couch it is inevitable that you will roll off taking the sofa cover and cushion(s) with you.

Bologna seems to be a nice place to live, and we are slowly learning the way of the land. The apartment is on a quiet dead-end side street, and the nearby major cross streets have everything including a pharmacy, a bakery (which I have yet to go to when they are actually open...), a butcher, a mini-market, and a post office. Between home and the John's Hopkins building we pass many produce stands, gelaterias, restaurants, and cafes. Within 10-15 minutes walking you can either be at school or in the city center which is fantastic.

The food here is fantastic, and I am looking forward to learning exactly how to cook it all. I'm hoping to enroll in some cooking classes and my goal is to make Pasta Bolognese (Ragu) from scratch. So definitely check back for updates on that! The grocery stores are filled with fresh breads, handmade refrigerated pastas, sauces, thin cured meats, cheeses (the Parmesan is INCREDIBLE out here!!), unique fruits and vegetables, and lots of cheap, cheap wine. There are also tons of cafes that offer aperitivo's where you pay for one drink (typically 3-5 euros for a glass of wine) and get unlimited trips to their appetizer/small-plate buffet. It's a fantastic happy hour type of deal! Of course there are also great pizza places nearby, and we found a small calzone joint yesterday that was quite delicious. Oh, and don't even get me started on the gelato! Yum! Apparently there's even a geletaria here that offers tastings and parings with sweet wines!

All in all it has been a great start. We definitely miss everybody back home and there are still lots of things to figure out, but we already creating a mile-long list of places to go, clubs to join, and things to do. We are doing a city tour tomorrow, so after that I will be able to describe more of what Bologna has to offer! So until next time...

Ciao!

Danielle