Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Milan, Prague, Bratislava, Budapest... oh my!

Wow, so much has happened lately that I don't even know where to begin!

Last week was spring break for the Johns Hopkins - Bologna Center which meant lots of visitors and lots of adventures. My parents were in town for two weeks and we did a whirlwind tour of Milan and Eastern Europe. Before getting into the travel photos and stories, let me first say how excited I was when I realized what was in their luggage...


That's right, a little taste of home! My parents threw the famous blue boxes of Kraft Macaroni & Cheese into their suitcases along with Girl Scout cookies, chocolate chips and other cookie making ingredients, and Velveeta and Rotel for queso dip. Say what you will about how sinful it is to eat packaged powder cheese when I am amongst all this delicious Italian food, but that bowl of macaroni may have been one of the highlights of our year here! It's amazing what you miss after being away for so long... :)

Another non-Spring break highlight was a little surprise I had from Niraj. He got me a giant chocolate Easter egg! And I mean giant! Notice the spice jars in this picture... pretty big huh? Buon Pasquale! Happy Easter!


Ok, now on to the travels...

I met my parents in Milan and we spent a fabulous weekend in this high-end Italian town that none of us had ever been to before. We walked and walked and walked all over the city, saw Wagner's "Tannhauser" at the famous La Scala Opera House, ate amazing food, walked through the Galleria shopping center where many designers got their start, and saw many Italians walking through the streets on Palm Sunday with their olive branches. There were two highlights that stood out over all of those amazing things, however.

The first was the Duomo. Milan's famous cathedral is absolutely breath-taking gothic architecture, which by far is one of my favorite styles. The inside was just as stunning, but it was the top of it that was best of all. Yes, the top! The coolest thing about the Duomo is that you can walk on top of it! My parents and I were able to walk amongst the statues, the pillars, the spires, and cross the entire length of the roof. Seeing Milan from the top of a church and seeing this amazing piece of work so up close and personal was surreal. And again, being Palm Sunday we could hear mass going on inside. Now, how many people can say they heard mass from a rooftop?

The second memorable thing we did in Milan was see Da Vinci's Last Supper painting. After making reservations months in advance we finally got to see this unbelievable piece of work. The painting takes up an entire wall in this otherwise empty room, and it is just as breathtaking as I had always imagined. And again, seeing it on Palm Sunday right before Holy Week made it extra special.

After going to Milan, Niraj and I showed my parents around Bologna for a couple of days. We also made a delicious meal at home to show of our newly learned Bolognese cooking skills, and the four of us gorged ourselves on Torta Frittas, Prosciutto di Parma, Spritz, wine, tortelloni con burro e salvia (butter and sage), and a delicious after-dinner digestif. Even after traveling all over Europe, the food in Bologna never ceases to amaze!

Then our Eastern European journey began. We flew into Budapest and spent three days there. Budapest was so beautiful, and it is amazing how the River Danube divides the city into a a hilly part (Buda) and a flat part (Pest). Parliament Building stands out in the flat side right along the river, and the Palace and Fisherman's Bastion tower over the hills on the opposite bank. We did a tour of Parliament, went to a Hungarian opera (which was by far the weirdest thing any of us had ever seen!), ate amazing sausages and potatoes and goulash, went inside many cathedrals, and just marveled at the un-touched beauty of this post-communist city. This was my first time in a post-communist country (Niraj had been to Sarajevo though), and it was incredible seeing the remnants of communist rule and hearing the history of it. We did a communist walking tour our last day there, and had an incredible guide who grew up under Soviet rule. We heard stories about the schools, the daily life, the censoring, and saw buildings and landmarks that we would have otherwise overlooked completely. The place Niraj and I stayed at was also a typical building, and as you can see in the pictures has been limited in the upkeep department.... it had so much character though and definitely added to the whole experience.

One of the highlights here was going to the Bathhouse. The one we went to was outside the city just a bit, and there were numerous natural sulfur pools both inside and outside that you could soak in. The temperatures ranged from lukewarm to 106F, and it was definitely the most relaxing thing of the entire trip! One of the outdoor pools even had a whirlpool-like portion of it, and when you got into it you would effortlessly go round in circles. It was hilarious... especially when you tried to get out! Plus, Niraj only made matters worse by repeatedly pushing me back in when I tried to get out... fun times.

After three days in Budapest, we hopped on a train to spend a quick day in Bratislava, Slovakia. This often overlooked town was very quaint and was a nice change of pace from western Europe. We wandered through the tiny pedestrian streets, saw the famous Cumil statue of the jolly worker peeking out of a manhole, ate a big meal of weinerschnitzel and potato croquettes, walked along the streets where famous composers once ventured, and just spent a few hours exploring. It was a quick stop, but there was again so much history and a unique feeling to the city.

Our final venture was to the magnificent city of Praha (Prague). We were there over Easter weekend and were able to learn the traditions of the city. There were Easter markets set up in every square where you could buy sausages, gluwine (hot mulled wine), the famous Pilsner Urquell beer, hand painted eggs and gifts, and gorge yourself on (our favorite) Tredlnik. This delicious treat is bread that is rolled and grilled over an open flame and then covered in a mixture of vanilla, cinnamon, and almonds. YUM!!! I think it's fair to say my parents and I quickly became addicted to these! We also learned that the Easter tradition is for boys to tie sticks together with ribbons and then go door-to-door to visit the girls they know. They knock on the door, hit the girl (gently) on the legs with the sticks, and then the girl has to give the boy an egg that she has decorated. Ah, the unique traditions of other cultures!

In Prague we began by doing a 3 1/2 hour walking tour of the city. We got a great sense of the city and learned the entire history from our fantastic tour guide. During our stay there we saw the Astronomical Clock, Our Lady of Tyn Cathedral, Old Town Square, walked across Charles Bridge both during the day and at night, went up the tower for an amazing birds-eye view of the city, walked through the Jewish Quarter, saw the Kafka statue, and spent a few hours at the Palace. Again, the architecture and history of this city was absolutely incredible! An interesting tidbit about Prague is that many major movies are filmed there (regardless of where they actually take place) because it's the one city in the world where nearly every type of architecture is present. You walk down a street and every building looks drastically different, but just as stunning, as the one before it. Again, this just touches the surface of all the things we did and saw, but it's fair to say that Prague is now right up there with Budapest as one of the most incredible cities I have ever seen!

I could go on forever about these two weeks of travel, but I think the pictures show things better than I can explain! So, take a look and enjoy... I know we sure did!

Milano

Budapest

Bratislava

Praha

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