Sunday, April 25, 2010

Good Day Sunshine

Today was the perfect spring day. The sun was shining, there was not a cloud in the sky, and it was one of the first days we were able to wear short-sleeve shirts, flip flops, and sunglasses. This morning I even had the privilege of hearing my neighbor singing "Volare" at the top of his lungs while he was watering his plants. He was no Pavarotti, but I can honestly say there have been fewer things this year that had made me feel more Italian than that!

Today was also the day of the SAIS International BBQ. After all, what better way to celebrate an International school than by eating food from all over the world? It is Italy. Eating is what we do here.

Everyone spent the afternoon at school under the sun enjoying each others company and eating delicious food. There was everything from Polish cucumber salad to curries to Italian chocolates to Swiss hash browns to potato pancakes to Spanish churros to Mexican fajitas and guacamole to hot dogs to grilled plantains to good ol' American apple pie (that one was courtesy of Niraj and me). The list goes on and on but I think that gives the general idea. Somebody even threw in a box of Girl Scout Thin Mint cookies! Just like Thanksgiving, it amazes me the kind of food you can make over here if you really dig around for ingredients and get creative. The afternoon also included throwing around a frisbee, kicking soccer balls, and even a few numbers from SAIS' in house a cappela group.

Everybody (including Niraj) is getting geared up for the last few weeks of class and for final exams/papers, so it was definitely a great way to give into spring fever and relax a bit. All in all, not a bad way to spend an Italian Sunday afternoon.

Friday, April 23, 2010

Volcano Disruptions and Feeling the End is Near (not literally of course...)

As most of you know, the recent volcano eruption in Iceland caused many, many problems on this side of the pond. Forget the thousands of other people stranded, the most important disruption was that the flight of our good friends Mike and Alyssa was canceled! Ok, maybe that wasn't most important but it sure felt that way to Niraj and me. Mike and Alyssa were supposed to be here right now drinking wine and eating gelato with us, and we were very disappointed they didn't make it. Luckily they were able to take a much needed vacation elsewhere, and at least we'll be stateside soon to see everyone again!

Let's not forget all the other great people who come see us these past few months... it has meant a lot to us to have so many people visit. The Oktoberfest crew (Ann, Aaron, Jason, Jon, and Erin [wink, wink!]), Ted, the recently married Chapmans, and my parents. Having friendly faces definitely helped us survive the year, so thanks a million to those who made the trek! And for those who couldn't make it, guess we'll just have to catch up for lost time back home...

All in all time is really starting to fly by. I'm venturing back in 3 weeks, and as people are slowly starting to trickle out of Bologna it's starting to hit that this will all come to an end soon. Guess we just have to make the most out of our final weeks here. So... gelato, pasta, wine, parmesan, and prosciutto, here we come!

Friday, April 16, 2010

Italy vs. Europe

This was shown a few months ago at school during a student event, and I just had to share it with everyone. It is absolutely hilarious, and every bit of it rings true to life over here. From the buses to the parking to the autostrada to the smoking to clapping on the airplane, Niraj and I have seen it all this year!

Enjoy and be prepared to laugh out loud!

Italy vs. Europe

A *real* Taste of Italy

Last weekend, Niraj and I had yet another fantastic experience here in Bologna. We did a cooking class to learn traditional Bolognese cuisine. There is a cooking school called "Taste of Italy" here in the city (and yes, I named my blog before I ever saw that!), and they really did provide a terrific culinary experience for us.

We had the privilege of taking our class with 7 other Hopkins students at a Bed and Breakfast in the little town Castel San Pietro. The place had a fantastic open air kitchen which was perfect on that beautiful sunny day. Our instructor Teresa was an 80-year old, award-winning sfoglina who makes pasta by hand everyday for local restaurants. She makes such perfect pasta that customers at her restaurants often don't believe the pasta is handmade because it is cut too evenly. She did not speak a word of English, but was very entertaining and thought we were all molta bella (we thought the same of her as well).

Throughout the 4 hours that we were in San Pietro, we learned how to make the dough, knead the dough, roll the dough, and cut various pasta shapes. We made tagliatelle, tortelloni, farfelle, and garganelli. We probably had enough handmade pasta for 30 people!

Naturally, after making the pasta the next step was to eat the pasta. We sat outside under the sun and were able to try our different pasta shapes in 3 very typical Bolognese sauces:

1) tagliatelle con ragu (the traditional meat sauce from Bologna)
2) garganelli with 3P sauce - panna (cream), piselli (peas), and pancetta (bacon)
3) tortelloni con burro e salvia (butter and sage)

The instructor provided 2 bottles of wine from a nearby vineyard, and the food was delicious! It still amazes me how delicious fresh pasta is... especially when your hands and arms are sore from working it yourself!

Check out the Pictures to get a feel for the entire experience, and buon appetito!

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Milan, Prague, Bratislava, Budapest... oh my!

Wow, so much has happened lately that I don't even know where to begin!

Last week was spring break for the Johns Hopkins - Bologna Center which meant lots of visitors and lots of adventures. My parents were in town for two weeks and we did a whirlwind tour of Milan and Eastern Europe. Before getting into the travel photos and stories, let me first say how excited I was when I realized what was in their luggage...


That's right, a little taste of home! My parents threw the famous blue boxes of Kraft Macaroni & Cheese into their suitcases along with Girl Scout cookies, chocolate chips and other cookie making ingredients, and Velveeta and Rotel for queso dip. Say what you will about how sinful it is to eat packaged powder cheese when I am amongst all this delicious Italian food, but that bowl of macaroni may have been one of the highlights of our year here! It's amazing what you miss after being away for so long... :)

Another non-Spring break highlight was a little surprise I had from Niraj. He got me a giant chocolate Easter egg! And I mean giant! Notice the spice jars in this picture... pretty big huh? Buon Pasquale! Happy Easter!


Ok, now on to the travels...

I met my parents in Milan and we spent a fabulous weekend in this high-end Italian town that none of us had ever been to before. We walked and walked and walked all over the city, saw Wagner's "Tannhauser" at the famous La Scala Opera House, ate amazing food, walked through the Galleria shopping center where many designers got their start, and saw many Italians walking through the streets on Palm Sunday with their olive branches. There were two highlights that stood out over all of those amazing things, however.

The first was the Duomo. Milan's famous cathedral is absolutely breath-taking gothic architecture, which by far is one of my favorite styles. The inside was just as stunning, but it was the top of it that was best of all. Yes, the top! The coolest thing about the Duomo is that you can walk on top of it! My parents and I were able to walk amongst the statues, the pillars, the spires, and cross the entire length of the roof. Seeing Milan from the top of a church and seeing this amazing piece of work so up close and personal was surreal. And again, being Palm Sunday we could hear mass going on inside. Now, how many people can say they heard mass from a rooftop?

The second memorable thing we did in Milan was see Da Vinci's Last Supper painting. After making reservations months in advance we finally got to see this unbelievable piece of work. The painting takes up an entire wall in this otherwise empty room, and it is just as breathtaking as I had always imagined. And again, seeing it on Palm Sunday right before Holy Week made it extra special.

After going to Milan, Niraj and I showed my parents around Bologna for a couple of days. We also made a delicious meal at home to show of our newly learned Bolognese cooking skills, and the four of us gorged ourselves on Torta Frittas, Prosciutto di Parma, Spritz, wine, tortelloni con burro e salvia (butter and sage), and a delicious after-dinner digestif. Even after traveling all over Europe, the food in Bologna never ceases to amaze!

Then our Eastern European journey began. We flew into Budapest and spent three days there. Budapest was so beautiful, and it is amazing how the River Danube divides the city into a a hilly part (Buda) and a flat part (Pest). Parliament Building stands out in the flat side right along the river, and the Palace and Fisherman's Bastion tower over the hills on the opposite bank. We did a tour of Parliament, went to a Hungarian opera (which was by far the weirdest thing any of us had ever seen!), ate amazing sausages and potatoes and goulash, went inside many cathedrals, and just marveled at the un-touched beauty of this post-communist city. This was my first time in a post-communist country (Niraj had been to Sarajevo though), and it was incredible seeing the remnants of communist rule and hearing the history of it. We did a communist walking tour our last day there, and had an incredible guide who grew up under Soviet rule. We heard stories about the schools, the daily life, the censoring, and saw buildings and landmarks that we would have otherwise overlooked completely. The place Niraj and I stayed at was also a typical building, and as you can see in the pictures has been limited in the upkeep department.... it had so much character though and definitely added to the whole experience.

One of the highlights here was going to the Bathhouse. The one we went to was outside the city just a bit, and there were numerous natural sulfur pools both inside and outside that you could soak in. The temperatures ranged from lukewarm to 106F, and it was definitely the most relaxing thing of the entire trip! One of the outdoor pools even had a whirlpool-like portion of it, and when you got into it you would effortlessly go round in circles. It was hilarious... especially when you tried to get out! Plus, Niraj only made matters worse by repeatedly pushing me back in when I tried to get out... fun times.

After three days in Budapest, we hopped on a train to spend a quick day in Bratislava, Slovakia. This often overlooked town was very quaint and was a nice change of pace from western Europe. We wandered through the tiny pedestrian streets, saw the famous Cumil statue of the jolly worker peeking out of a manhole, ate a big meal of weinerschnitzel and potato croquettes, walked along the streets where famous composers once ventured, and just spent a few hours exploring. It was a quick stop, but there was again so much history and a unique feeling to the city.

Our final venture was to the magnificent city of Praha (Prague). We were there over Easter weekend and were able to learn the traditions of the city. There were Easter markets set up in every square where you could buy sausages, gluwine (hot mulled wine), the famous Pilsner Urquell beer, hand painted eggs and gifts, and gorge yourself on (our favorite) Tredlnik. This delicious treat is bread that is rolled and grilled over an open flame and then covered in a mixture of vanilla, cinnamon, and almonds. YUM!!! I think it's fair to say my parents and I quickly became addicted to these! We also learned that the Easter tradition is for boys to tie sticks together with ribbons and then go door-to-door to visit the girls they know. They knock on the door, hit the girl (gently) on the legs with the sticks, and then the girl has to give the boy an egg that she has decorated. Ah, the unique traditions of other cultures!

In Prague we began by doing a 3 1/2 hour walking tour of the city. We got a great sense of the city and learned the entire history from our fantastic tour guide. During our stay there we saw the Astronomical Clock, Our Lady of Tyn Cathedral, Old Town Square, walked across Charles Bridge both during the day and at night, went up the tower for an amazing birds-eye view of the city, walked through the Jewish Quarter, saw the Kafka statue, and spent a few hours at the Palace. Again, the architecture and history of this city was absolutely incredible! An interesting tidbit about Prague is that many major movies are filmed there (regardless of where they actually take place) because it's the one city in the world where nearly every type of architecture is present. You walk down a street and every building looks drastically different, but just as stunning, as the one before it. Again, this just touches the surface of all the things we did and saw, but it's fair to say that Prague is now right up there with Budapest as one of the most incredible cities I have ever seen!

I could go on forever about these two weeks of travel, but I think the pictures show things better than I can explain! So, take a look and enjoy... I know we sure did!

Milano

Budapest

Bratislava

Praha

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Friendly visits

This past weekend we were visited by Ted, our good friend from Seattle, for a few days. It was so nice to see a familiar face again! We had a few great adventures and definitely had a lot of laughs.

The day he arrived we dined at Osteria Broccaindosso which Niraj and I had heard so many wonderful things about but had not yet been able to try. This restaurant was fantastic and we ate until we could hardly move! Basically, you pick what courses you want (we chose antipasti - appetizer, primi piatti - first course, dolci - dessert) and they bring out plates with EVERYTHING that they are making that night for each course! We must have had 6 different antipasti, 5 different pasta dishes, and probably about 10 desserts. Needless to say it was tons and tons of food but it was great to try so many homemade dishes.

Friday we hopped on a bus and made the short trek out to the Lamborghini Museum. That was incredible! We had a guided tour of the museum floor and even got to go into the factory. Oh my, those cars are stunning and absolutely perfect. The cars are completely hand-made and custom ordered. The factory currently makes two models in limited colors (gray, black, white, orange, yellow), and sticker prices range from 400,000 euros to 1.1 million euros! We saw a few of the cars driving off the line and heading out for their road test, and we saw all parts of the cars from the engines to the frames to the brake pads. Unfortunately, cameras were not allowed in the factory but here are our museum pictures.

Over the weekend we headed to Tuscany. We spent Saturday morning in Pisa, so (of course) we saw the leaning tower and the Piazza dei Miracoli, took silly pictures kicking over the tower, and had a nice picnic on the grass. From there we went to Lucca which was a complete 180 from Pisa. The entire city wall is still intact and the city has not yet been overrun by tourists... definitely nice to get away from tourists. We walked through the narrow streets, had a fabulous dinner at a local Trattoria, and just enjoyed the serenity of the town. Sunday morning we packed up and moved onto Florence where we spent the day wandering around the Ponte Vecchio, eating gelato, exploring the markets, checking out the Uffizi and the Academia, and taking lots of pictures.

Here are a few choice pictures from Ted's visit.


Yesterday I had another chance to meet up with some old friends when I met Brandon and Molly (also from Seattle) in Florence! Yes, Florence twice in one week... but who would complain about that?! We had a great lunch and then wandered all over the city up and down and up and down the hills! We saw Galileo's house and Fort Belvedere, marveled at amazing views from churches on top of the hill and Piazza Michelangelo, and walked along the Arno river. Another great day in Tuscany.

All in all, things are still fantastic as usual. Our time over here is winding down very quickly and it is so hard to believe! My parents are coming in tomorrow and we will be spending two weeks traveling around, so there will definitely be lots more stories and pictures to come...

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Under the Tuscan Sun

This past weekend, while Niraj was slaving away in class and in the library, I ventured off with 7 other woman (who have dubbed ourselves the Ladies of Lesiure) to Tuscany for a girls getaway. It was fantastic and was definitely the epitome of all you would expect of Tuscany.

We left early Saturday morning and made a stop over in Greve, a little town just south of Florence in the wine zone of Chianti. When we arrived, we explored the Saturday fresh air market that is to typical of Italy. The sun was shining which felt terrific after the massive snowstorm the entire country experienced the week before. We opted to buy a pork sandwich and some fruit from the vendors and sit outside to people watch and bask in the sunshine.

From there, we did a very scenic, hilly drive towards Montepulciano. The drive was stupendous, and every direction en route provided never-ending views of wineries and rolling hills. Montepulciano was yet another town full of character and charm, and after hiking up the hills we reached the main piazza. We explored a cantina that housed some of the biggest wine barrels I have ever seen, and then we all sat in a cafe four hours tasting wines of the region.

We then ventured to Pienza where we had rented out an agritourismo. From this point forward is when the true Tuscan experience really began! The farmhouse was run by a couple who was oh-so-very Italian. After showing us our rooms and our quaint little apartments, the owner then proceeded to bring us two bottles of the Vino Rosso that is produced on the site. Not only did he give us the wine, but he sat right on down and drank it with us! After that, he stated over and over how we weren't eating enough (if you're not eating all the time then Italians are not satisfied) so he made reservations for us at his favorite Trattoria. The meal was fantastic and we gorged ourselves with Ceci noodles and wild boar sauce. After all, we had to make him happy!

The night got even more eventful when we returned from dinner. Once we got settled and started a fire in our cute apartment, he returned yet again with a bottle of grappa and a bottle of amaro, the sweeter liqueur. These are two very typical after dinner digestives here in Italy and were also both made in house. Once again, he plopped right on down and drank it with us swapping stories and overcoming the language barrier!

The next day we were shown even more hospitality. We awoke to clear and sunny skies, so we decided to sit outside to drink tea/coffee and enjoy the baskets of goodies provided by the farmhouse. After breakfast we were given a full tour of the agritourismo. We saw the vineyard, the cantina, the animals, the wine barrels, the bottling rooms, and all the foods produced by the family. We were treated to generous samples of wines, pecorino cheeses, prosciutto, and sausage (including sausage made from pig's head!) that were all made on site. Once again, it was all about keeping us well fed! The food was fantastic and we really felt welcomed. We spent the rest of the day exploring Pienza, sitting in the sun, marveling at the views of the valley, and eating gelato.

Here are a few choice pictures:

Enjoying mimosas in the sunshine



On the hilltop of Pienza



The agritourismo where we stayed



Having our feast prepared by the owners



The Ladies of Leisure under the Tuscan sun


All in all, it definitely was not a bad way to spend two days with the ladies!